The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop How to remove freeze plug?

Hi -

Another novice question from the new guy ...
How do I remove the freeze plug from my '54 235 block so that I can install a road draft tube? After I remove the plug, I assume that I just pound the road draft tube into the hole and secure it with the bracket - is that correct?

I am removing my half fast PCV system and replacing it with a valve cover and road draft tube that I bought from Thoroco (Dave Chapman at the Hollister Road Co.)

Thanks,

- Lonnie

I've removed them in the past by driving them in with a punch then levering them out with a pair of channel locks (aka waterpump plyers). Hit one side down causing the opposite side to tilt up so you can grab it with the plyers. Now keep in mind this was in the water jackets of a V8 with it tilted up on it's side, so they didn't have far to fall (if they did fall in) since the block (cylinders) were only an inch or two below.

That proceedure may be a bit risky in your case since it could fall into the crankcase. (I'm kinda new to these old sixes so I'm playing it safe and assuming that) I would suggest using a small [censored] punch to make a hole. Then screw in a sheetmetal screw (lag screw) into the hole, then use a long handle screwdriver, (or visegrips, or channel locks) to pry the freeze plug out. If you notice the freeze plug sinking in, stop an drill a hole for the sheetmetal screw / lag bolt. Use some thick wheel bearing grease on the bit to prevent any metal shavings from falling into the crankcase.

Normally that kind of plug sits against a shoulder, such as the regular plugs in the block do. To remove them I take a sharp punch, poke a hole in it and lever it out. You may want to drill a hole in the center and then lever it out.

Take a punch,knock a hole in it and use a dent puller to take it out,if you drill it you may get metal in your oil.

I don't understand the concern about the plug falling into the crankcase if pushed in. The point of the plug is to keep coolant in the engine but to provide a pressure relief if the coolant starts to freeze and expand? With coolant behind the plug, how can the plug (or chips from drilling the plug) get into the crankcase without the coolant also ending up in the crankcase?
I still suggest that care be used if drilling since chips could contribute to radiator blockage or water pump damage.

Check his link and you will see it is for the oil draft tube,

Thank you, if I had fully read before replying I could have figured it out too. Pause while I take my foot out of my mouth.

Just a follow up to say thanks. I got the plug out with a punch and a small pry bar. Stuffed the road draft tube into the hole and pounded it a couple of times with a wood block and hammer. Secured it to the engine block with the bracket. The bracket doesn't grip the RDT tightly. Hope it doesn't vibrate itself out of the hole.

(Grant - don't flog yourself for your response. It was good info.)

- Lonnie

Lonnie,

I might be a little late here but there is a small metal plate inside the engine that acts as an oil defuser/deflector. This keeps oil from running into your draft tube and clogging it up.
You might want to see if you have one by sticking your finger in the hole. You can feel it just inside the block.

Hope this helps
George

George -

I looked and poked my finger into the hole when I removed the plug. Didn't see or feel a deflector but I didn't know what to look for, so it may have been there. Since the tube runs "uphill", how badly can it get clogged? Any suggestions on what to do if there is none?

Thanks,

- Lonnie

The baffle, part number 3702766, is a formed sheet metal piece fastened to the inside of the block by the screw that is about an inch forward of the road draft tube. The head of that screw seems to be visible in the image in your first post above. If the baffle is in place you cannot see into the crankcase with the tube removed.

Hoyt

Hoyt and George -

>> Could I have knocked off the baffle when I punched the freeze plug to remove it? I punched in about 1-1/2 inches.

>> Should I be concerned that the baffle is missing?

>> What are my "work-around" options? Don't think my local Chevy dealer has the 15-cent baffle in stock!

You are right - the screw is there. But the baffle isn't. Before I inserted the RDT, I could see and touch the cam shaft through the hole.

The screw is not free-spinning-loose; however I can move it with little torque. Hope it didn't fall into the crankcase.

I'll remove the road draft tube tomorrow and try to learn more about the missing baffle.

Thanks to both of you for alerting me about the baffle and for any suggestions that you can give to me.

- Lonnie

I removed the road draft tube. I can feel inside the hole and touch the (sheet metal) screw. Nothing is attached to it. I can see the cam and see through the oil to the bottom of the shallow end of the oil pan - - it's not sitting on the bottom of the pan.

The truck is not a daily driver. What do you recommend re: the missing baffle?

- Lonnie

I think in time you will find oil dripping out of the RDT if the baffle is missing. Even more of a leak would be the holes in the block, these go through the block and screw into the baffle.

Dave -

I came to those two conclusions, too. The screw for the baffle was not connected to anything when the freeze plug was in place, so I don't think that I will have any more dripping from that location than I did before. The screw partially plugs the hole. However, I do foresee oil drips where the RDT enters the block. That location was previously sealed by the freeze plug.

Thanks to all for your help.

- Lonnie