The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline sloppy shift lever, sm 420

I`m trying to de-slop the shift lever. truck is a 49 2 ton GMC COE with a 4 sp muncie sm 420. To dissassemble the shifter,Ive been told to press and twist the lever counter clockwise and the lever should pull out but no had luck with that. Any other ideas will be welcome on how to take the lever out and what to do afterwards. The tranny is still in the truck not on the workbench and I`m not sure I can pull the top off to put it on the workbench.
Anyone have a diagram of the actual top cover shifting lever mechanism?
Many thanks, John Drabik

You need to push down on the collar and then turn it counter clockwise. When you do that it should come off. Spray it with some penetrating oil and make sure you have it in neutral.

Just did it! Thanks! A bit of PB softened up the old grease and off it came. Looks like the previous owner welded up the slop on the shifter end once before so I guess I can do it again also.
Is there anything else in the shifter cover that may need to be adressed?

Watta difference!!!!! Fattenned up the business end of the shift lever with some weld, made new pins and welded and milled new grooves in the fenobla. (The half ball socket) Almost too tight.

Thanks again Mr Stocker

Now finish the job and treat the welds with Kasenit, and it won't wear out again, or at least not as fast. Welding up the wear spot and dressing the weld took all the surface hardening away so you've got nothing but soft, annealed steel left.
Jerry

Good point. Ive heard of the product. Just have no clue how to use it. Will snoop the weld forum. Thanks. Good thought.

I use it frequently in gunsmithing work. It's a coarse carbon powder that the part is dunked into after heating to a cherry-red color, then the heating continues until the surface of the metal absorbs some of the carbon. After a time, the red-hot metal is dunked into icewater, which results in a glass-hard outer surface with a tough, but somewhat flexible under layer. A little polishing of some slight surface roughness is required, but a hard, wear-resistant layer several thousandths of an inch remains after polishing.
Jerry

You wouldn't happen to have any before and after pics of your job would you? I would like to do the sampe to my shifter.

Rick.....

I am interested in how you did the repair,I have the same problem with my shifter, having some step by step pictures and a talk us through it would help a lot of folks.I have asked many people about this with no luck THANK YOU

Excellent topic -- This would make a great tech tip if someone would take the pictures and send them to me ([email protected])!

Thanks,
John

I didn't know you could do this.

How do you know when they are too sloppy? Was the shift pattern real tight when new? Or did they wiggle some?

Thanks

One quick Question does anyone know of a source for the new pins the shifter lever locks down on one of mine is seems too be very worn loose ?

Just an idea, I think those pins are stepped, and kinda like a rivet are upset on the end in the top casting. I have a transmission with loose pins to and have not yet attacked the problem. But I'm thinking they could be tightened by using a rivet gun, unless they are way too loose then a person may have to have some made or if you have a lathe make them.

Thanks Truckrolet I figured they might be a build it yourself part, Will probably try what I did on a gear box back in the Uk Grind a Cap head screw too the size I need, then secure it with a nut from the outside not perfect but a solution. Plus one of my Dads old tricks from way back cut a piece of Inner tube so it fits Like a washer in the Retainer and it will stop it rattling

What ever you end up doing, you need to make sure it stays tight.
Any movement at all will let it keep wearing, if it ends up being a bolt, maybe some locktite.