The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Crank Shaft Pulley

I have a 1955 6400 (2nd series) with what I believe is the 261. I was redoing the coolant system (new water pump, thermostat, hoses, cleaning and pressure checking the radiator and heater core) when I discovered that there is an excessive amount of play in the pulley that runs the water pump and generator. So I wiggled it and wiggled it, and the dang thing came right off.

This is not good, is it? Should it be attached somehow? I looked in the end of the crankshaft and it just has a smooth taper inward - no threads of any kind.

Help!?!

PS - I have NO IDEA what all those little icons are supposed to mean, so I went with the first one!!

This is just a guess. I was around when they were on the road though I was just a youngster then. It should take a bolt or a large nut. One or the other. Could be the bolt/nut came off when running sometime back. I don't think they were pressed on. Might be. I wish I could be of more help. H.

Hy nodaknick, bad news buddy those balancer/ pulley assemblies were just pressed onto the crankshaft. So find another one and see how tightly it fits on the crankshaft, good luck. I drill the front of the crankshaft on all my engine rebuilds, if you drill it 7/16" N.F. you can use the balancer retaining bolt and washer setup designed for a small block Chevy V8, hope that helps.

to get mine on my 261,, i heated it up in the oven on 250 degrees for about a half hour and still had to beat it on the last 1/4 inch..without heating it, it would only go on about 1/2 inch...

Those are definitely press on and there are threads on this site where people have installed a front bolt, as mentioned above. You are very lucky that it didn't come off while running. There should also be a key that goes into a slot on the shaft. Also, have a look at the pulley to see if there is a crack in the collar.

Sounds like you're going to be in the market to drill and tap your crank. I was amazed at how soft the snout was when I drilled my 56 engine. The only real problem is with getting some clearance up front to hold the drill. Centering is not an issue because the it is tapered to the center, inside the snout.

It sure makes it easier to install and secure the balancer and I prefer a wrench to a hammer!!!

Heating it in an oven CAN cause damage to the rubber because of the dry heat. I have a heavy duty hot plate that I use to heat it up to about 180 to 190 degrees in an oil bath for about 1/2 hour. Mine have always gone on with just a couple "taps" with a hammer. No beating is required.

Thruwurkin

Thanks everyone! It didn't seem right that it came right off. I will have to have it drilled and tapped.

The key that was mentioned above is starting to wear. I don't even know that this is the correct pulley for the truck, but if I actually fasten it to the engine, it will probably work.

If the snout of the crankshaft is worn out, the 235 and 261 take the same crank.

I have a 67 C40 and had the fiber glass timing teath shear off as I was driving around 40 mph 4th gear. I obsreved no bad noises. Has this happened any one.
Does this usaly result in damage if so to what to what exstent. I have purchased a replacement aluminum and steal gears I know how to replace them but how do I get the old timming gears off.
I would like the best way or correct way(proper) I am no a fan of using a large hamer

You need a gear puller to remove them and you need to heat them in an oil bath to re-install. If you install them cold with a press or hammer they will not fit well and ruin the camshaft and crank snout.

What gear puller are you refering to. I have quit a few puller to include diff carier berring pullers. None of the teath on the pullers are thin enough to fit between the gear and the block when I use a puller on the two holes on the cam gear, the fiberglas just giveway.

There are tapped holes in the gears for a bolt-type puller.

You have to destroy the fiber gear to remove it, just use a chisel.

You really need to remove the camshaft to press the new gear on with a hydraulic press. If you try to drive it on with the cam in the block you will probably knock the soft plug out of the back of the block.

The cam gear should be pressed off and thus the cam needs to be removed. I used a puller on my crank steel gear as it had tapped holes. The replacement did not have the holes. My machinist told me that for the crank gear he just strikes a chisel between two teeth, right above the keyway and it cracks the gear.

I have a 216 engine that I am trying to get balancer pully off of and was afraid to pull too hard on it with the puller. Does this engine also have a pressed on balancer? Thanks in advance. Everett

Yes, it is a press or interference fit. You need a puller that uses the threaded holes in the center of the hub. If you try and pull on the outside the balancer will be ruined. It sometimes take a lot of muscle to get it moving. If you strike the end of the wrench with a hammer, the shock can get things started.

An electric frying pan with about Half Quart of Transmission fluid(enough to cover the gear) makes a real nice way to heat the gear before installing.Set it at 300 degrees or so. Of course you will need some good gloves and be sure not to splash the hot oil on yourself. Put the cam in the freezer for at least a half day.
Electric frying pans work real nice for preheating bearings before installation too and they are super cheap new at Walmart.It is best to use one with an simple wall timer so you do not go off and leave it on.