The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Need Help With Battery/Generator Problem

With my newly acquired '65 Chevy P/U I tuned up the 6 cyl, replaced with rebuilt generator, and added a new battery. Truck has been running great the past few days. I decided to take a drive this afternoon. I invited my wife to come with me for her first ride in the truck.

It was getting dark so upon starting the truck the battery was deader than a door nail. Pushed the truck to get it started but with the lights on it ran like a dog. No voltage. Upon looking at the gauge the needle was in the middle. Did the same with the key off so the gauge must not be working. Then I remembered something about polarizing the generator. Could that be it or might there be a regulator problem?

I won't go into what the wife said.

Any suggestions would help. Thanks

You've got a 65 model with a generator? I was under the impression that alternators were standard equipment by then. If it does have a generator, it can be polarized by touching a jumper wire from the Bat. terminal of the regulator to the Arm. terminal momentarily. With a fully-charged battery, the voltage at the battery posts with the engine running at a fast idle should be approximately 14 to 14.5 volts. If the battrery is low, charge voltage can be as low as 12.5 or so, but it should not drop below 12 volts with the engine running.
Jerry

painter, What's the deal that your 65 pickup has a generator?The factory stopped installing generators after 62.
If it's an alternator no polarizing is necessary but if indeed a generator yes, polarizing may be necessary and can be done by momentarily connecting a jumper from the battery positive to the generator "A" or Armature post---NOT THE FIELD or "F".
I prefer engine running higher than idle.

My bad, guys. It is an alternator.

Tomorrow I'll test the new battery. But I still think there is something else. Upon installing the rebuilt alternator the old battery was fine. But it died. Gives me reason to think the rebuilt alternator is not a good one.

There are two types of alternators. If yours is original to the year of the truck, it also has a regulator, usually mounted somewhere on the radiator core support, with 4 wires in a plastic plug connected to it. If the regulator isn't controlling the alternator properly, you'll get no charge voltage. The other type of alternator, from about 1972-forward, has an internal regulator. The wiring is different, but it still requires the correct hookup.

I'd suggest you find a shop with a good electrical specialist and get them to do a quick diagnosis. You can throw parts at the problem forever with no success, particularly if there's a wiring issue to deal with.
Jerry

Most local flaps can check the alternator for you. Take it in and they can put it on a machine that will run it and see that it charges.

If it doesn't and they warranty the alt with another make them check it before you leave.

You might be surprised at the number of rebuilt alternators that don't work right out of the box.

If it checks out okay, then you need to get someone to look at the truck that understands how to check the regulator and the wiring on the truck as Hotrod Lincoln suggested.

Roy is correct i had 4 alternator before i got a good one and i work at a FLAPS

Did a test on the battery with voltage meter. Volts read the same on battery with engine running and not. I'm going to take advise and take alternator to auto parts store to have it checked.

Will advise results. Thanks