| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
0 members (),
40
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,030 Posts1,055,428 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 10 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 10 | My Posting "Igniton Switch" will explain the problem I am having with the ignition switch. After my last posting I did some more trouble shooting and here is what I discovered. I removed the switch and connected a hot wire directly from the battery to the bat terminal on the switch. I connected a test light to the sol terminal and the ign terminal and when I turned the key to the start position the test light came on. This I felt proved the ignition switch was good. So I ran a wire directly from the battery to the switch and tried to start the engine and nothing happened. With the switch installed and all the wires connected I used a test light to see if power was getting to the sol and ign terminals, which it was. I reconnected the orginal battery wire to the switch and the engine would crank and fire but not run. My question is 1. why didn't the engine crank and fire with a direct wire from the battery and 2. is the soliniod wire supposed to be hot all the time? Electrical is a weak point with me so any help would be appricated. Thanks Redo | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | best if you keep discussion of a problem to one thread - here no one knows what year or configuration you have ... do you have a shop manual electrical diagram? as I pointed out in the other thread, the way the key start works is in the 'start' position, the ignition resistor is bypassed, giving full 12V to the coil - when you release the ignition switch to return to the 'run' position, the 12V from the switch is routed via the resistor to reduce the voltage to the coil .... if you put a jumper from the battery to the coil+ and the engine continues running, you will show the problem is either the wiring isn't done completely right or you have a bad ignition resistor
Bill | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | |
|
|
| |
