The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Frame painting/refinishing

Rather than blasting my frame (the rust is not scaling, just surface rust) how about black rust reformer? Anyone have experience with this?

You didn't say what this stuff will cost to do a whole frame, or doesn't cost enter the picture.
Ther are lots of products out there, some are proven to be good,and some yet to be proven.

What do you want...something that will last 40 years, cheap, easy,or any of the other variables that play into getting the end result.

What I'm saying is...the end result has to be known in order to pick a product or method to achieve it.

Dan

I don't need it to be better than when it was manufactured, but want it to be black and stay black for the forseeable future. There won't be any mirrors under it but I don't want it to look like garbage either, and it will be driven. It is about $90 a gallon and will do the whole frame with lots left over. I have seen it used just not for this application and was looking to see if anyone has used it and what results they had.

a quart will cover 50 sq ft, which is plenty to do a frame...myself however refuse to recoat anything over rust, I dont care what the cans say. pay a shop 200 bux and have em blast it, you will be glad you did it right.

I don't know about that product, sounds like a rust converter. Sounds like the one advertised on AgDay, which comes from the Rust Guy.
I think the question is...can u rely on the product doing what it's advertised to do....and then for how long.

I don't know the extent of ur rust, but if it was me and I didn't want to go full boat and blast, I would wire brush the the frame and paint with Rustoleum red primer, 2 coats, and then top coat it with 2 coats enamel.
Now I know that will go the distance because I did it to a frame back in the 70's and it's still on the frame looking decent except for a few rock chips.

Beyond that u can spend bigger bucks and use different products like Chassis Saver and Por15 which are supposed to be better, but I have yet to hear about any proof that it holds up any better 35 years later.
I guess we will have to wait a few years to prove the outcome and I imagine they will hold up just as well if not better, the only difference is the cost.

Dan

I used eastwood ceramic chassis black but I had it dipped and then I primed and painted. If I was going to paint over light rust then I would use POR 15 which stands for Paint Over Rust. The used frame I bought had been por15 and set out on the ground in Michigan for years and the stuff still pretty solid.

I sanded our frame by hand, lots of time, but I have lots of that. I then primed and painted it!!

I had a frame blasted and powdercoated. 450 bucks. Saves alot of time and looks great.