The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Otto Skorzeny, TexasA&M48Truck), 144 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,095
Posts1,056,480
Members48,444
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 341
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 341
My plans for my '53 3100 is to get it drivable for the next season or two and then tear down for a rebuild/restore. There is no rust through in the floor but plenty of surface rust. I'm looking for opinions based on your experiences as to what I should use to seal the floor with. I plan to put down a pad and rubber mat.


Allan
-----
1951 GMC 1/2-ton
Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 85
Z
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
Z Offline
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 85
I would use a rust convertor then encapsulator. Then paint. You are tearing it down in a season anyways. I wouldn;t put too much effort in it. If it is going to be garage kept and not taken in the rain then you could just leave as is for now.


52 Chevy 1/2 ton - work in progress
65 Mustang coupe - work not in progress smile
67 Mustang GT convertibile
67 Camaro RS/SS
We are now even with fords and chevys. smile
Now i need a mopar. Hahahahahahahahaha
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
N
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
N Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
If you can get the pans like you want them now and primed you will be one step closer to finished. Some will put it back like it was made the first time. The rest of us will do the best we can. I cleaned, sandblasted, used phosphoric acid and followed that with POR's Marine Clean then POR-15. I then dusted the last coat with primer and primed when all was dry. If you aren't doing a Fred Flintstone out of the floor it will keep for a year or two. Clean it keep it dry and do it once when you are ready.

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 341
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 341
Thanks for the responses. Since I'm not stripping the entire cab I can't sandblast so I was thinking about trying to take off as much surface rust as possible and then put a coat of POR15 down to semi-seal it. It will be garage kept.

Last edited by magfarm51; 02/22/2011 6:44 PM.

Allan
-----
1951 GMC 1/2-ton
Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
N
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
N Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 493
That'll work. Mine were so bad that wasn't an option. If you haven't used the POR-15 before follow the directions and cautions. Especially the one about getting it on your skin. Your 53 looks great by the way.


Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0