The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 261 Valve Guides

Forgive me guys, for most likely asking a question that's been asked a gazillion times.
The "search" on here for my topic doesn't help me at all.
First, I need a source for purchasing valve guides for my 261 head.
NAPA has straight shank but my originals had collars.
Does anyone have a good source for these?
Secondly, is there a recommended method for installing them? The old ones were so brittle, I fear my hammer method might not be best. Should I somehow heat the head and freeze the guides?
This pops in my head as one way to go about it. I've never done this before.
Any input on this is appreciated!
Jerry

Hy Hellomrwilson, I'm not sure if different year 261s had different procedures, the following info came from a 1954 maintenance manual. The valve guides can be pressed out on an arbor press, they are pressed out from the spring side down through the combustion chamber, they use a shouldered tool to accomplish this. There are two different lengths of guide, the intake guides are longer than the exhaust guides. The guides should be pressed into the head from the spring side until the intakes are 1" above the spring seat, and the exhausts are 15/16" above the spring seat. Once installed ream the guides to .343 with a hand reamer, hope that helps.

Jerry, why not have modern bronze sleeves installed into the existing guides? That is the method used by competent machine shops in reconditioning heads. Bronze guide liners are also used in manufacturing aftermarket heads. They are in the Edelbrock heads I bought for my street roadster.

That may be more cost effective and will provide a superior finished product. The trick will be finding a person to do it competently, especially if you are in a rural area. I moved from an urban area of California to a rural area and the concept of doing things properly simply does not exist here.

Most machine shops stopped sleeving guides about 20 years ago or so. While the procedure is effective in the short term, replacing the whole guide makes for a longer-lasting job. The guide-sleeving process was mostly used by shops that didn't have a dedicated seat/guide machine to do the guide removal/replacement process accurately.
Jerry

Thanks for the tip, Ray. The old guides are completely removed and destroyed. I'll have to install new ones like Jerry stated.
My old guides appeared to have integral flanges (what I referred as collars). I have been trying to locate that type with no luck.
Bobb, I'm afraid I haven't had much luck with anyone in my area concerning pressing the guides. I may have to do it myself. Jerry offered a procedure that I am willing to try.
Jerry, thanks for the help. Maybe I should buy a few extra just in case?

I'm quite sure your guides with collars were not original. Chev stopped using them in 1936. The GM parts book lists "1940-62 all 6 cylinder" for your engine.

Thanks Dave. I wouldn't doubt that the guides aren't original as the engine's been rebuilt before.
I've accepted that my new guides are going to be the straight shank type.
At least I know I can get those.
I'm pumped and ready to getRdone!