The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Jay R, Hotrod Lincoln, Bill Hanlon), 180 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,186
Posts1,057,308
Members48,468
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 58
'
New Guy
New Guy
' Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 58
I'm progressing along with my 54 truck. I want to open up the doors a little so I can install "Second Skin" insullation panels against the outside door sheet metal as well as have more access when installing Electric Life electric windows. I personally don't see any problem as long as I don't remove inside door metal that needs to support something from the inside. Does anyone have any thought about my doing this? The entire door will have be upholstered so the openings will not show.

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
I'd make a better effort to do what you need to without cutting holes in the door.
If the doors needed more holes in them they would have come that way.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 58
'
New Guy
New Guy
' Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 58
Well, that answer doesn't solve my problem. With electric windows going in and Dakota Digital Shooters being installed as well as sound dampening material going against the outer sheet metal there is a need for more access. God (GM) certainly did not build the truck to accommodate everything folks are doing to them in the "HiPro Shop" area of these forums. Appreciate your thought though.

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 219
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 219
I was thinking about doing that i don't see a problem, but i would tack the piece back in place to help prevent the door from twisting over time.
Great job on your truck.Are those the original doors modified ?


layback
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Then it sounds like you already decided to make some more holes even if in the long run it's a poor idea...

Can you make them appear factory, round ends or corners and flange the edges to the inside? Or even make nice removable covers.
Not having sharp edges or square corners will reduce the likelihood of cracks starting.

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
B
Master Gabster
Master Gabster
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,983
I don’t know what brand of Vibration dampener you are using but most quality dampeners will dampen without putting it on 100% of the area. What I mean is you should be able to place only a small amount of the dampener on the inside of the door and achieve the results you want. I saw a demonstration of vibration dampening once. They had two cymbals, one with a one inch square piece of material on it and the other with nothing. There was an incredible difference in the dampening with only the one inch square piece.


~Jim
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,067
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,067
Here's what I would suggest. Don't cut the entire inside skin off. The reason is because it adds rigidity to the door and if you cut it off, even if you bolt it back on, it's going to change. Door skins are tricky business.

Instead, consider cutting "access panels" into the inside door skin. That way, there's enough of the door skin to maintain original rigidity.

As far as insulating your door, try this. Since you're having the inside of the doors custom-upholstered anyway, then apply something like Lizard Skin to the exposed interior door skin, and also apply either that or whatever sound-deadening product you want on the back side of the door upholstery also.

I will end up doing this myself. Because all the floorboard and firewall insulation in the world is not going to help much if the doors are still like hollow steel drums.


Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0