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#71862 01/18/2007 4:45 AM | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 50 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 50 | I have a 1951 Chevy with a 235 engine. It has a Rochester B carb. I can't get the carb to stop dumping too much fuel. If you take the carb off and look down there will be a pool of fuel and of course it doesn't stay running long with this problem (or crank back up)!!
I've already rebuilt the carb and a couple of times tried to adjust the float. At this point I'm thinking about another type of carb. Anyone have any suggestions for another type carb that can bolt on and hopefully solve/address the fuel dump problem??
Carb King?
Thanks, Mike
1951 Chevy 3100 w/235
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#71863 01/18/2007 5:15 AM | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,154 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,154 | Hey Mike....same here problems with same carb. I was told that a YF 3211 Carter is a better carb and an exact replacement but finding one has been a bear so far no luck for me. I'm thinking of sending the Leackchester carb to Antique Carb Repair to have it done over...if you find a source for a Carter let me know...Steve | | |
#71864 01/18/2007 5:17 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | magnmike, I ain't the KING, but it worked right once and should be able to work right again. You're probably thinking 'talk is cheap', but I think if you go over each step carefully, you might find a float set wrong or a needle tip that is dinged or a gasket that is torn. It isn't working for a reason, all you have to do is find the reason. Stuart | | |
#71865 01/18/2007 2:18 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 627 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 627 | I've heard of gasket interference with the float causing it to hold the needle open. You might need to do a little trimming. Carter W-1 is also a good carb. You can buy YF or W-1 or another Rochester here: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com
Mike Barnes 1950 GMC 1-ton pickup
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#71866 01/18/2007 6:59 PM | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | Hey Mike,
I went through the same ordeal on my 56-235...rebuilds, float adjustments...more float adjustments......wound up buying a "rebuilt" Rochester from a local parts house only to find that it was improperly assembled at the plant and the throttle shaft was excessively sloppy. At $109.00 this was no bargain.
I called Tom Langdon at Stovebolt Engine company and he suggested converting to a Holly/Weber progressive 2 barrel. This is a rebuilt carb, adaptor to mount it on your stock intake, a linkage package, electric choke conversion kit and he offered a polished breather kit as well.
The installation took about 30 minutes, the carb has performed flawlessly. I get better acceleration, no flat spots, better mileage than with the Rochester and the only adjustment I had to make was to set up the idle a tad. Bolt it on and forget it! Time to enjoy driving your truck. The total for the entire carb setup was $117.00. The air cleaner was a bit more pricey at $45.00 but it's a beaut!!
I am continually reading posts from folks that are trying to salvage their ancient, ill running, leaking Rochesters. Granted, the Holly/Weber doesn't "look" stock but they function GREAT! If you're interested in a carb that will make your truck drivable, I'd give Tom a call. He's always willing to answer questions and his product is worth every penny. This is not an endorsement...it is a fact. I hope this helps you with your Rochester problem. | | |
#71867 01/18/2007 7:56 PM | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | It seems to me that there are about as many guys that are running the "ancient, ill running, leaking Rochesters" as there are those who have switched to something else. I'm one who has no problems with the Rochester. Mine starts up good, idles good, no stumbling, accelerates good, and has never leaked. I don't believe the Chevy engineers would put a "bad" carb on these motors. If one isn't running right it could be as simple as a spec of dirt, an improper adjustment, or a bad part such as a leaking float. Anyhow, that's my .02/worth. | | |
#71868 01/18/2007 9:23 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 142 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 142 | I have a YF CArb that I might be willing to part with. I am looking for a Zenith for my GMC 228. | | |
#71869 01/18/2007 11:28 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 627 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 627 | Waldo you apprently got the only one that don't leak. Zenith's for 228 GMC are here: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com
Mike Barnes 1950 GMC 1-ton pickup
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#71870 01/18/2007 11:51 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 142 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 142 | Carter's does not have them and will not have them for at least 5-6 months. | | |
#71871 01/19/2007 3:58 AM | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 50 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 50 | Thanks guys. Lots of good answers. There certainly could be something I'm missing on the "B" but I'm to the point of being frustrated. Last time I thought I had it right, I tried to drive the old girl to the local tire shop for new tires. Got within sight of the tire place (on the other side of busy highway), and she conked out and wouldn't restart due to excessive fuel.  . Have pulled it off since and went through all the steps again with my rebuild kit. I do admit I'm not an expert though! Automarc you may not be the "King" but I've seen plenty of comments from people who profess to your reign of carbs:) I'll let everyone know what I decide.
1951 Chevy 3100 w/235
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