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| | | Forums66 Topics128,022 Posts1,055,381 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 47 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 47 | it seems that i'm having troubles with latches these days (i made a similar post re a glove box latch). i installed new door latches on both doors. the passenger side door closes and latches fine. when i close the driver side door i get that wierd sound indicating that the door is not properly latched. you can't open the door because the safety latch engages, but apparently the rotor is not engaging so the door doesn't close tight. i read the tech tip guide on latch mechanisms but i'm still not sure what my problem is. is there a simple fix with the latch, or perhaps i need to adjust the door hinges. any thoughts. thanks. p.s. i have a 1950 chevy 1/2 ton.
Che 1950 Chevy 3100
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 124 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 124 | maybe its the location of the striker and or latch? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 111 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 111 | Arron Thats amazing! I am having the same trouble with the same latches (Glove box and drivers door). I adjusted the door hinges today, and even lifted the door with force (a 2x4 under the bottom edge upon advise from a body guy) and I still cannot get the latch to secure completely. I cannot determine if the striker is adjustable or not! It does not appear that the latch is adjustable in the door! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 124 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 124 | on my 54 the striker is adjustable and the manual gives some instruction to adjust it. although i thought it needed tweeking even after that.
(from memory)i think its three clutch head screws. loosen them, slide the striker out as much as the slotted holes will allow, close the door, open the door and tighten the bolts. this didnt seem to take into account the compression of the weather strip so i just slid the striker in another fraction of an inch.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | Normally there's very little if any adjustment in the latch mechanism. It's usually in the striker. It's most likely just a case of needing adjustment but that's easier to do (show someone) than to tell them how. If the door isn't latching completely move the striker toward the outside of the door until it latches completely. Then check to see if the door skin is even with the cab on the latch side. If it's proud of the cab move the striker in, in small increments until it lines up. If the latch is hitting the striker on the bottom of the latch move the striker up. Move it opposite if it's hitting the top of the latch. It should be leaving marks on the latch if it's hitting high or low. You can also watch the door at the latch as you close it. If it's lined up before latching but moves up or down during the latch process move the striker up or down as necessary to make it latch correctly. Be aware that it's not only possible but likely that you have a combination of the above and will need to make a combination of adjustments before it's right. Use a pencil to mark the striker position before you move it as a reference so you can tell how much and what direction it's moved. Clear as mud????
Last edited by Tiny; 02/01/2011 1:23 AM.
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