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Joined: Feb 2002
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W
Socket Breaker
Socket Breaker
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part in question

according the the rebuild instructions, this part is called : plug - power valve

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0295.htm

At the page above, the part is referred to as 'valve unit'.

My question is... is that ball supposed to be stuck down in there like that?

If not, any ideas on how to get it out?

Dad and I think it is not supposed to be stuck down in there like that.

And now we have a spring that took off flying from the rebuild kit, ha! old trucks are fun!

Wish us luck trying to find that spring... haha...

Thanks,

-W

Joined: Aug 2001
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G
'Bolter
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Hard to tell from the pic but it looks like a needle and seat replacement from "Grose-Jet" see the tech tips section of inliners.org under multiple Rochester setup. Kind of a high dollar part that is not supposed to plug up like stock needle and seats. I think there are actually 3 balls in it and they should rattle. also has some holes in the side of the hexed brass housing?

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You are absolutely right. that ball is not supposed to be stuck there like that. it got stuck by someone overtightening the valve unit into the support. I had the same problem in my carb but i dont remeber hows i fixed it. i can only think of two or three ways that it can be done. First if there is a small hole at the top of the valve you might be able to put something in and push it out. the next way is to use something with a sharp point and pick it out of the valve slowly. the last thing you can try to drill it out. By the way of you go with the second option of tryingto pick it out you might want to use some WD-40 or engine oil to make it easier to get it .

Good luck

chaimv

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Some carb cleaner might help loosen the stuck ball. A magnet is a very good thing to help find small lost springs and that ball when it finally comes flying out.

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Dad tried the PB blaster, soaking it in the gunk carburetor cleaner bucket, hitting it with compressed air.

There is a hex head with screw slot on the opposite end there... I guess someone buggered it good.

Thanks for the tips folks.

-W

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Riding in the Passing Lane
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I,m not shure which ball you are refering to. The one under the accel. pump can get stuck if someone has put the wrong ball in it. The only spring that comes in the kit is the one 3.825 under the little T. You can use the old one. I generaly don,t pull it out. If it has the Grose -jet Greg is referring to you can replace it with the conventional needle & seat that comes in the kit.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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on this image here:

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0295.htm

where it reads:

3.858 valve unit

it is pointing at the part... that ball is stuck inside the part. At least, there is a ball stuck inside there... and the rebuild kit did not come with another ball of that size so Dad was thinking he had to re-use it.

-W

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Riding in the Passing Lane
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That is unusual for that ball to stick in there. Iv,e got an extra 3794 complete with the ball & spring. E-mail an address & i,ll send it to you. [email protected]


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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Dad managed to get the ball out of the part in question... he left it in the carburetor cleaner bucket for two days and it rolled right out. I guess it was gunked up good.

However, as with all things Stovebolt, he has encountered another issue.

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0295.htm

Using the above diagram... the following parts are missing, the hole was filled up with 'goop' as dad called it. I wasn't there when he discovered this.

The parts missing:

spring 3.823

screw 3.822

Those parts are not in the rebuild kit, as I imagine that they are supposed to be reused.

Anyone have an idea of how to acquire these parts... I would imagine that they would have to be used?

Wrenchbender, thanks for the offer.

-W

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C
Carburetion specialist
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The screw (group 3.822) should be in any decent repair kit; the spring (group 3.823) is available.

The numbers are group numbers, not part numbers. Groups contain similiar parts from different units. The picture is from a Master parts book which covers several years. Once you find the group number from the picture, you look at the numeric list for that group and find your unit by application. There will be a 6 or 7 digit part number for the individual part.

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
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W
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I was wondering what those numbers meant... I was just mentioning them in here so everyone would know where I was looking on the diagram.

Thanks carbking.

-W

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Riding in the Passing Lane
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O.K. I left out the decimal point. I meant 3.794.Iv,e got the 3.823 & 3.822. I can send them If you want. George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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Wrenchbender,

I sent you an email.

Thanks,

-W

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Hiya folks.

So, Wrenchbender Ret., was a prince and sent those parts out to me since he had them laying around.

However, someone at the Post Office decided they needed the parts more and made small holes in envelope in the two places where Wrenchbender had taped them to a piece of paper inside the envelope and they ripped the valve and spring out.

:mad:

some people!!!

So, now I am on another quest for the parts.

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0295.htm


Using the above diagram... I am looking for the following parts:


The parts missing:

spring 3.823

screw 3.822


The rochester b that we have, the numbers on it makes out as a 1959 carburetor for a 235.

I wonder if carb king sells small used parts?

Hmn.

Thanks for any tips folks.

-W

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Hey Woogeroo, sorry to hear about the parts missing saga.

I have a Rochester parts inventory and so happens I have both parts you need.

PM me your address and I will be happy to send them to you.

Hobert


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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Woogeroo:
[QB]
However, someone at the Post Office decided they needed the parts more and made small holes in envelope in the two places where Wrenchbender had taped them to a piece of paper inside the envelope and they ripped the valve and spring out.

:mad:

I dunno, but it sounds like a machine ate the envelope, I had that happen a couple years back-sometimes they get put into the "letter"(perfectly flat) machine & if there is a bump in it, it gets hung in the machine which rips it out. A buddy's dad works in the General Mail Facility, he is in machine maintenance, that's how he explained it to me. Brian


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Yep, 64Fleetside is right about the machine.
Anytime you put something besides paper in an envelope be sure to write "Hand Cancel" in bold letters.
In theory they will hand cancel the parcel and not run it through the machine

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the parts you are talking about is the power system,,you have a spring and long brass lance the lance fits into a hole in the piece the ball is in the ball should have a small spring under it to hold it closed,,,the lance is sucked aginast the top spring compressing the spring at idle and low speed when hard acc or full throttle is used vacum decreases allowing top spring to push lance thus removing stuck ball allowing more gas into engine under full throttle...doc

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Sorry for jumping in your thread, but my son´s GMC 59 is got one of those Rochester carburetors. It was a little boring adjusting the floats. But we succeed and now is running well except for part 3.822, which I believe is not the original one as it does not seem to fully control gas mix, it is always too rich.
Does anyone can tell the length of this part?


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Watch out for those power valves. I have had considerable grief with a couple of them- it seems the castings warp after a while and the valve doesn't move freely, and either doesn't unseat the ball and runs lean all the time or sticks down in the power valve housing and keeps the valve stuck open giving bad gas milage. I've had to tweak them or even swap castings to get them to work.


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