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#711776 01/14/2011 3:05 PM
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Im preparing to install turn signals on my truck.

I have the old signal lever that was in the truck from way back.

old signal lever pic

Going to clean it up and try to install it if its still working.

Heres a pic of the back
Back of signal

Since I have no diagram can some one tell me if the
Yellow/green would be one side (ie left front and back)
and white/red be the other. Or something else.

It has 7 wires
red
green
yellow
white

black
orange
brown
I know the orange and black go to the flasher

any help would be great. I do have a replacement on hand (Taiwan)

Thank you

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Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
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Thank you

Printing out the tip for reference.
couple of steps there Im not following
like this

"This one is a little harder to wire but nothing a Stovebolter can’t handle. You already have a wire from the brake light switch to the left rear brake light. You’ll need to cut this wire near the brake light switch. Splice a new wire from the cut brake light switch wire to the Gray / Black wire of your signal switch. Splice a wire from the cut brake line wire to the Gray wire of the signal switch. Run a new wire from the Black wire of the signal switch to the right brake light.

(Note: If your truck had a right tail / brake light from the factory but no turn signals there will be two wires from the left light to the right. The one for the brake light will have to be cut and terminated. Leave the taillights connected to each other.)"


I have both barke and tail lights. I just installed the L.E.D. in the rear. Tail, and Stop. I want to use the Stop light as the signal because it is brighter. I have conventional 1157's in the front.

Will that mean the signal lights will work only when the brake pedal is depressed?

Thank you

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wired correctly, the stop lamps are always used for the turn because brighter - the signal mechanism "interrupts" the chosen lamp, letting the other light work with the brake pedal ... sounds like the gray is the feed from the stop switch, the black wire is the right stop/turn, and there's an existing wire to the left stop/turn .... you need to eliminate any cross connection already existing at the back between the 2 lights so they can act seperately

it may be a little hard to follow mentally, but draw it out, the stop switch supplies the signal mechanism, and R and L brake lights need to be seperately hooked to it so it can interrupt whichever is chosen, but let the other go by, or let both thru when no signaling done

Bill


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Thanks Bill

That makes sense, It’s starting to sink in a bit,(I think)

The quote above was from Cletus tech tip in the link.

I charted out the wiring as suggested in the link
signal lever chart

I don’t have a gray wire
But I think the brown is the feed from the stop switch...
the green/yellow are the right.....
and the red/white are left.

Does this sound correct by looking at the chart?

I already know the orange and black go to the flasher. The black goes from the flasher to the bulb in the lever.

Thank you

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can't hurt much to try that layout, looks about right - the black to the flasher and indicator make it so the indicator will work when the flasher clicks regardless of direction

Bill


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"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
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Extreme Gabster
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It looks to me like there is a problem in the switch. The way I read your chart is thus:

Red to left front
white to left rear
green to right front
yellow to right rear
Orange to flasher load
black to flasher pilot
brown from brake light switch

The first chart show continuity between red and green, the front signal lights. There should be no continuity there. But it looks like it won't make any difference.

The second chart shows brown to green on one box and brown to yellow in another box. I think you misplaced an X on your chart. I think the X on yellow should be on green instead.

Looks like you have figured it out. Congratulations


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
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Thanks Cletis

I rechecked and I do have continuity between green and red in the off position, First chart.

and you called it on the second chart (left turn)…. continuity is between brown and yellow. Not the brown and green as I had marked.

I'll give it a try, I would like to use this old American made thing, I have the New Taiwan on standby.


I’ve probably spent more time making charts and checking wires then I would take most guys to install the thing.


Just need to pick up a LED rated flasher then give it a try. Wondering If I need to use 1157s led’s on the front since I have the led’s on rear.


Thanks again

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Dads50,

I left the 1157 bulbs in the front and LEDs in the rear. If you install LEDs all around, there is not enough load to work the flasher. The 1175s work fine for turn signals on the front and are enought resistance to work the flasher. If you want LEDs in the front, you need to wire a "load" into the system..a resistor or a 1157 under the panel.
Hope this helps.


Mark


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Some days you get the bear. Some days the bear gets you.
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Originally Posted by 51bolt
Dads50,

I left the 1157 bulbs in the front and LEDs in the rear. If you install LEDs all around, there is not enough load to work the flasher. The 1175s work fine for turn signals on the front and are enought resistance to work the flasher. If you want LEDs in the front, you need to wire a "load" into the system..a resistor or a 1157 under the panel.
Hope this helps.


Mark

Thank you for that info, I’ve been reading some threads on this subject.

Are you using a standard flasher with LED's on rear and conventional 1157's in front?

some posted the blink rate is off if I don’t use the led rated flasher

I’m using the 45 l.e.d lens in rear, not the socket bulb if that makes any difference.

Thanks again


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