The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop water pump adapter

Can some one tell how the water pump adapter plate works? Yes, I know it moves the pump up. Water must circulate thru the pump. But, doesn't the plate cover the holes in the block? I have a 60, 235 that I'm going to adapt for my 52. I like to know the principles before I start most things.
Glenn,

There are holes in the plate that let the water flow from the back of the pump to the block. It doesn't hurt the flow any.

A couple things about the adaptor plate installation. You'll have to drill and tap a couple 3/8" holes in your block to properly secure the pump and plate. You use the adaptor plate as a pilot to get the holes properly placed. The instructions you'll get take you step by step...no guess-work involved.

If your engine is a 60 CAR engine running a larger diameter car harmonic balancer, you will overspeed the pump so you'll need to get a TRUCK balancer. If it's a 60 TRUCK engine, the TRUCK balancer will have the correct diameter pulley. A truck balancer is interchangable with a car balancer.

If you are planning to run a 3/8" belt, you would run the 53-54 truck balancer. A 5/8" belt, would require a 41-54 truck balancer. The 3/8" belt is most commonly used with an alternator, pwr steering pump and a/c compressor.

The beauty of this setup is that you can replace the pump with a stock 41-54 pump from any of your local parts suppliers. I got my pump from NAPA which offered both the 3/8 and 5/8" pulley pumps.

In addition, your pump will now be centered in the radiator, the pump will spin at the proper speed. I run a six blade 15" diameter flex fan and idled the truck for 20 minutes with the temp staying at 180 degrees.

My fan clears the harmonic balancer and has about 3/4" clearance from the radiator with it mounted in the correct factory holes. I purchased my adaptor plate from a guy on this site...Pre68Dave....great service and a quality product. This isn't necessarily an endorsement...it's a fact!!! I've got some pics of the pump w/plate on my Webshots "shoebox".I hope this helps.

GEC52 ... did you buy an adaptor plate? If not I just bought one and I'll give you a great deal on it, as I decided not to use it. Let me know I'll send pictures.

My problem with the plate was that I bought Patricks short waterpump and it is a later model pump that doesn't work with the adapter plate. So after some serious thought I decided to stay with the new water pump.

The adapter plate works great, I've ran the short pumps in the past they worded ok but the plate is the way to go. If you're going to use one do the drilling and tapping before the motor's installed.

Hey chev235,
Sent you a PM -- Jeff

I've used the adapter on four 235-261 engines.Like said above,it fairly easy to do if the engine is on a stand,a little tricky trying to drill with the engine in place,radiator removed,but possible.
The 216 type water pump is designed to be driven about 1.4 times the crankshaft speed.The 55 and up pump is underdriven,slightly less than crank speed.You may want to fidget around with pump pulleys,a 60's Falcon 6 pump pulley is the right diameter and depth if you're using a 3/8 belt.Takes a little engineering to do this.Watch the fan speed cause an old fan may not like being driven faster than is was designed for.I used after market paddle blade flex fans,easy to trim the blade edge for damper clearance if necessary,and they are rated for 8000 rpm pump speed.
I had used the short pumps,the engines all ran hot when caught in traffic cause the fan is too low.With the adapters and higher mounted 216 pumps,never got hot and even ran a touch cooler driving at road speeds.

Wow,thanks guys. That is some great info. I never thought or heard of fan speed before. I was going to use the pump (short shaft) off my 51, 235. I have not bought an adapter yet. I will also check the balancer today to see what size it is. Thx for now.

Glenn,

I'd like to use the adapter plate but the 261 style pumps can be purchased with 2 ports such that one of them can be used for heating the intake.

Is there any such thing as a 2-port pump for a 216?

Interesting thread, i wonder how many people are over spinning or under spinning their fans out there? I'm going to have to check all of mine to make sure they are at the right speed.

Think someone can post a picture of these adaptors??? Pictures worth a thousand words.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Not sure how much higher the earlier pumps are mounted. Maybe 2".

Careful when experimenting with pulley diameters and fan speed.
Too fast and you get pump cavitation, bubbles and overheating.

You can also drop the radiator down by drilling new mounting holes in the radiator brackets about 1" above the original ones.
My radiator has a taller core, so it looks like original after the mod.
Don't know if the taller rad came 3/4 or 1 ton trucks, but is' a perfect fit on the 1/2 ton.

Also replaced my old inefficient fan with a 18" low-profile flex-fan.

Hey Denny.....just took a couple pics of the plate and the instruction sheet. It's on page 12 of my webshots "shoebox". Click on "Full Size" in the upper right hand corner and you should be able to read the info sheet. Hope this helps.

Thank you teach! That's exactly what I was looking for. Measurements can all come off the block and pump. I’m fortunate enough to have a pretty decent machine shop at my disposal, old Bridgeport and lathe, etc. So I printed out the pics last night but haven’t had a chance to look it over yet this morning. How thick was the plate by the way, and I’m assuming that it was steel, right??
Thanks again
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Jeff,

I sent you an e-mail but it bounced back. I still have the plate if your interested.

Plate is steel, 1/8" thick....gotta justify all those nice tools.....been there, done that!!!!
Send me an email! Might be able to add some info.

Are you gonna knock off a few adapters on your own? The guy who first designed them sometimes posts on this website.I don't know if the plate design is protected by law,but you should keep it low key,ya think?

You can't make the plate for the $40.00 going price. You can spend an afternoon on a bridgeport for free but you need a 3/4" X 82 deg. countersink to recess the holes for the old pump. If you don't have that in your hand good luck finding one for less than $40.00. As well the plate is cut as one continuous profile and doesn't require the handwork a homemade one needs. Jim Carter has the plate in his catalog and I'm sure a few other vendors will carry it if if demand goes up so it's no secret. I'm not advertising but this is the best picture of the plate:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955...201QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Curt B.