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| | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 | I am ready to install the 235 in the '59 Apache, but I have never seen the motor in the truck and the motor does not have the same type of mounts as the frame. I need to know its location and elevation so that I can fab up new mounts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Village_Idiot; 01/11/2011 7:28 PM.
Jessica's TruckThe true definition of insanity: To do the same thing the same way repeatedly and expect a different result each time. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | what year is the engine? car or truck? original truck frame? not sure, but 59 may be the first year for the front mount, previous years mounted off the side where there's 3 bolt bosses in a triangle .... also note that you'll need to add a trans cross member with an automatic
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 | the truck had two long bolts through the front crossmember and the origional motor had bosses on the front corners of the block. this motor has a hacked up front mount below the harmonic ballancer and the 3-bolt bosses in the center(ish) on the left and right of the block. I figured i could use the 3-bolt bosses on the sides, but I do not know where the motor sat in the truck. Im not sure the year or application of the motor im using best I can tell it is a 58-62 trk motor. when I get home I can post the casting #'s
Jessica's TruckThe true definition of insanity: To do the same thing the same way repeatedly and expect a different result each time. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | if those long bolts are actually in the front crossmember they'd be for the 235 - if in brackets riveted to the back of that crossmember they're the V8 mounts ... here's a 57 235 - other side .... sounds like the engine is from a different [later] application with that front mount, but you might be able to adapt that, otherwise you'd need an added on crossmember [like for a late model V8] to use the further back mount points Bill | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 | Your pic shows exactly what was there with the origional motor and motor mounts. Im ok with whatever mods need to be done, but I cant proced without some idea where the motor should sit within the frame. I wish I had at least pulled the old motor myself and then could have gotton those measurements. But alas I am finihing someoneelses restoration after they gave up.
Jessica's TruckThe true definition of insanity: To do the same thing the same way repeatedly and expect a different result each time. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The location of the bell houseing determines where the engine sits. The bell houseing with the manual trans. sets on the crossmember. When you stab the engine to it that will determine where the front mounts go. If your engine has the holes for the mounts shown in Squeeze's photos then use that system. If not you will have to fab. them. If you are using an auto trans' You will have to use a side mount system & remove the crossmember.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 | Dont I have to consider the location of the motor front to back so the fan misses the radiator( I never saw the truck together and I do not know if a 1/2" too far foward will get into the radiator). and dont I need the proper elevation to ensure driveline symetry. Or is it possible that I am overthinking this.
Last edited by Village_Idiot; 01/11/2011 9:25 PM.
Jessica's TruckThe true definition of insanity: To do the same thing the same way repeatedly and expect a different result each time. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Village_Idiot, if you haven't removed or hacked up the engine rear crossmember, then you could use the factory mount setup to position the block, and build your new mounts. If you need brackets, post an ad in the parts wanted section, the correct brackets for the six cylinder engine, have a "6" stamped on them. I'm not 100% positive but I think the holes exist in the newer blocks to allow the front/side mounts to be bolted into place, use the factory bellhousing to position the rear of the block. Of cource you will have to purchase/fabricate a crossmember to support the rear of the transmission, good luck, and please keep us informed of your progress. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 | Casting #s are 3769716 and the numbers stamped behind the distributor are F1130B. I used this tool to look it up..... http://www.adchevy.com/tools/castinglookup/?castingnumber=3764476&submit=Lookup#and it appears to be a '58-62 235 doesn't say car or truck so I'm not sure, but if you follow my link at the bottom of the page it will take you to pix of the motor out of the truck and sitting in the frame as well. Thx in advance for your help it is Greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Village_Idiot; 01/12/2011 3:44 AM.
Jessica's TruckThe true definition of insanity: To do the same thing the same way repeatedly and expect a different result each time. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | F1130B, Flint plant, assembled Nevember 30th, Passenger Car w/Powerglide application. The B code was used from '57 to at least '60, possibly to '62. Would need the date code from the right side of the block next to the starter to peg the exact year.
Bill Burmeister
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