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Hello All,
Please school me on what AN parts I need for this plumbing.
1. existing 1406 eddy carb. Purchased carb feed line & filer. Inlet end on filter is -6 male AN. What AN fitting do I need to attach -6AN SS braided tubing to this?
2. Purchased Holley fuel pressure regulator. Both inlet and outlet are 3/8" NPT. What fittings do I use to attach -6 SS braided AN tubing to the 3/8" NPT outlet side of regulator?
3.Inlet side of regulator is also 3/8". What fitting do I need to run -6AN SS tubing from inlet side of regulator to Holley fuel pump?
4.existing Holley fuel pump with 1/4"NPT. What fitting do I need to 90 out of pump and attach -6 AN SS tubing??Thank you.APV

APV.go to Jegs.com or Summit they have a full list on fittings and adapters for AN and NPT

I have been reading and trying to figure out how to get stated. I have viewed many AN sites on the net but just don't know how to start. For example, how or what AN fittings do I need to go from -6 male AN to -6 SSbraided tubing. I have never done this before
Thank you,
APV60

if your using the SS hose it helps to tape where you cut, and you'll prb need a decent hose cutter which they sell on jegs or summit. They work the same way as you repair an air hose, except rather than a male barbed connector, the connector is threaded and the compression nut threads onto that while its on the hose. The other side is the flared side.
Call summit or jegs, their techline can help you get what you need, SS maybe a little overkill unless your running race fuel

APV60, it sounds like you are dealing with 3 different kinds of fittings, inverted flare at the carb inlet, pipe at the regulator and fuel pump and AN at the filter. Adapting that all to AN will use a lot of adaptors, to me kind of cobbled together looking. If it is a mechanical fuel pump, your task would be vastly simplified if you eliminate the regulator, which is unnecessary with a mechanical fuel pump anyway, and do the whole job with 3/8" hardlines and flare nuts. Although bending and flaring the hard lines requires a bender and double flaring tool, Installing sockets on braided steel fuel line is challenging too.

I have that same carb. If you'd like to see what the simple hard line setup with an in line filter looks like I'd be glad to email you a picture.

Thanks for the reply Ray. Yes , I can cut flare and bend. I wanted to try these AN fittings and braided SS lines. I have heard that the Eddy 1406's are very finicky about to much pressure. Manufacturer suggests no more than 5.5 PSI. I think the 80 GPH Holley put out 7 to 8 PSI thus creating a possible flooding problem. My friend who also has the same set up (Holley pump to Eddy 1406) and also has some flooding problems.
Thank you,
Al

Al, if it's not a race application that requires very high flow, is there a reason to use a high pressure pump? It's hard to imagine 80 gallons of liquid passing through the jets of a single 1406 in an hour. I use an auto parts store stock replacement pump, but my roadster is a street only vehicle. That same pump may be completely inadequate in a race application.

I have found the 1406 a very easy carburetor to tune. Changing jets requires disassembly but changing the metering rods and/or metering rod springs is a 5 minute job.

My son's '78 El Camino has a Quadrajet and changing jets or rods on that takes a lot longer. On the plus side, his El Camino has fabulus throttle response because of those tiny primaries even with a moderate Comp Cam and gets 19 MPG at 70 MPH on the highway and my much smaller and lighter roadster with a similar Chevy 350 engine gets 20 MPG at 70 MPG but a 2004R overdrive transmission is required to accomplish that. The El camino has the original Sagnaw 4-speed.

Yes they are finicky about fuel pressure. I do not like Edlebrucks. I always use holleys. But if you wish to use the Eddy, Summit sells a fuel pressure regulater, and they are reasonable. I hate the AN/SS braided line. Tried to work with it and it scared me due to small pieces of the SS getting into the fuel line. Good luck

Hello Ray, the 80 GPH Holley pump came with this project truck and is plumbed in from the new gas tank to the pump. This Holley ,per my research, puts out 7.6 PSI. Edlebrock recommends no more pressure than 6.5 PSI. Thus I want to run with a regulator to avoid flooding. Is this logical or am I all wrong on this?
Thank you,
Al

Al, on car forums the highly opinionated say "My Holley/Edelbrock can beat up your Edelbrock/Holley" just like on arborist forums people say My Stihl/Husqvarna can beat up your Husqvarna/Stihl".

On various street rods I have had both Holley and Edelbrock carbs and both worked fine. Holleys make a little more peak power,leak, blow power valves and don't stay in tune and Edelbrocks don't make quite as much power, don't have power valves, don't leak and hold a tune forever. They both get the job done. To me, for street use Edelbrock is more practical and for race use Holley is a little more powerful.

If Edelbrock recommends a specific fuel pressure, I would go with their recommendation. They know what works on their product and they want you to be happy so they can get some more of your money.

As for the plumbing issue, if it were mine I would do whatever is easiest and makes the cleanest looking, operational, leak free setup. Personally, I don't see adapting three different types of fittings to each other as a clean looking solution because so many pieces are required although it definitely can be done. And if you don't like it, it can be redone.

I'd be glad to show you via emailed photo what a 3/8" steel hardline looks like with a 1406 on a SBC. It is plain and simple, assets to some beholders and not blingy enough for others.

This is the view of an old school and old (66 years)guy but to me all the billet gadgets hanging all over some engines make them look like wedding cakes, trying really hard to be noticed. To me, all that billet stuff is like mechanical breast implants.

There is fittings available for what you need. When you cut the line for proper length you need to wrap the line with tape such as 1 inch wide masking tape and then put it in a vise to hold it, but do not sqeeze it and collapse it. Just tight enough to hold hose. Then cut it through the tape where you have marked the length needed using a good cutoff wheel on a air tool. It is easy to do with an air tool however you can do it with a hack saw if you do not have air tools. The fittings on the hose comes with a sleeve that screws on to the hose. You have watch to make sure that you do not bottom out the hose in the fitting but it will be close. Then screw in the inner part turning the opposite direction. Blow out the hose with air before installing. Then admire your work before installing. It is not hard, just time to learn a new skill.

Thank everyone who commented on this thread. There is a lot of knowledge on this site.
Thank you,
Al

You need to buy the stainless steel line for gas. Don't forget to lube the threads on the fittings.

Edelbrock/Carter carb to -6

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2112

Then you would need something like this for the braided line to attach to it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220687/

You would have to see exactly what degree fitting you would need depending on mounting requirements.




Fitting, Straight, -6 AN Male to 3/8 in. NPT Male

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2005/




I don't really know of a way to do this. You pretty much either have to run flare fittings for this or braided stainless, I've used the pushlock hose recently, it's pretty nice stuff.

Thank you!
Al