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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 48
N
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 48
Do I apply glazing putty before I prime? I have USG Icing. Is it good for rust pittig? Seems like Evercoat Rage Extreme would be overkill and the pits have DTM epoxy primer in them from the sandblast shop, and glazing putty sticks to primer, right? If you can't tell I've never done this before. I am sanding the putty with 80 grit, and I think I am supposed to glaze the sand scratches to prevent scratch swelling. Is that correct? Do I really need to apply 4 coats primer, block sand, and then 4 more coats?


1950 3804 Pickup
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
T
Ex Hall Monitor
Ex Hall Monitor
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
I've been out of the business for a number of years so I'm not fully up to speed on the newest products but as a rule glazing putty is made for small pits and imperfections. Anything larger than a pencil lead size hole should be filled with a different product. Glazing putty shrinks as it dries so give it plenty of cure time before sanding & refinishing. It's designed to be put on over primer.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
6 Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
I'm getting tips from my painter buddy-most icing can go over primer, as long as its not real big holes like Tiny said. I have primed, blocked, primed, blocked, primed-not just 4 coats then sand.
80 is a little harsh for final sanding, lighten up to 220 grit before priming. 80 grit will wipe off icing. For final blocking use 360-400.


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
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1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
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1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
Joined: Dec 2010
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New Guy
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Joined: Dec 2010
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NOS, the glazing putty is fine for minor pits and deep scratches. As far as priming, you should be using a 2K primer and 1 to 2 coats is plenty, especially if you are applying it with a primer gun outfitted with a 1.8 to 2.0 nozzle. You want to keep your paint millage as thin as possible, this will help resist paint chipping. Like 64fleetside said 80 grit is too aggressive for glazing putty, 180-220 is perfect. One of my favorite glazing putties is called Dolphin glaze. Easy to apply and sand and I have had few problems with shrinkage. Best of luck!


Richard Morgan

1966 Chevy C10 LWB Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 66
G
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
G Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 66
I've ben doing body work since 1974 and never used that stuff a waste of money you do all your final sanding with 80 grit then lightly sand with 150 then good 2k epoxey primer let it sit over night and block sand with 150 reprime and if you need to re sand use 240 then 320/400 seal and paint but its all in how you want it to look but doing a good paint job will cost a lot just in mat. its your toy good luck

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 48
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 48
I have a roll of 80, 150, 240. and 320. Spent $700 on paints and hardeners and reducers. Spent way more than that on tools. I just want to do it right, not cheap wink Problem is, I have no idea what I'm doing.


1950 3804 Pickup
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
T
Ex Hall Monitor
Ex Hall Monitor
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
Anyone can paint BUT to paint well requires practice. A non experienced person + wanting it done right = a lot of do overs & expense. It would probably be cheaper to hire a pro or be willing to settle for less than pro results. I'm not trying to discourage you but you have a tall hill to climb if you want a professional job done.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 888
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 888
Do a search on Martinsr or Sevtchevelle. both bolters here or check out this . Brian Martin(Martinsr) has a lot of info here. It has all helped me. Have fun and good luck.
Dan

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 461
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 461
Wow, you prolly got 2k into this. With no practical painting experience, you need knowledge and experience. Options:
1. get some cheapo paint a lacquer will do, pickup an old fender from a local shop and start to practice.
2. internet search include you tube for some guys showing you how to do it, technique, etc.
3. a lot of patience and be ready for a ton of trial and error.
4. check with some of the local shops n see if they will allow you to watch them paint a vehivle...loacl guy using water based allowed me to come watch his mix/paint of a vehicle.
5. find a painter who will do it on the side or advise you...network friends/associates.

Hope this helps ya. Good luck with your project.



1951 restoration on website
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.hanklong.com
Joined: Mar 2010
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 66
like the others have said alot of money in paint tools wont make a paint job turn out great or even good all the tools sitting on the bench wont paint your truck, the person using them does I started out thinking that it looked easy 35 years ago /young and dumb it took me years of doing things over before I wanted anyone to see it my second year of painting I had a car in the Detroit autorama and I was surprized the wanted it and they are picky about what goes in a show then it went to another so if you really want to do this and it is a good feeling to do it all yourself take your time learn from people that are willing to help you and practise I'm sure other long time painters will tell you much of the same thing I say try it to see if you like it good luck I hope it works out for you


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