The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Looking for carburator spacer 235/261

Trying to locate the machined spacer ( about an inch thick) that fits between carburator and manifold.... it has an outlet to connect to the vacuum system for the power brakes..... I have seen it in brake booster diagrams hoping not to have one machines from scratch....source for the oneway vacuum valve would be useful as well.

This is intended for a rebuilt 261 fitted to a 1940 4x4 CMP (Canadian Military Pattern) truck.... I have managed to locate a NOS brake booster my quest for parts continues..... the same part existed well into the early 50s.

Thanks for your help.

Bob C.

it might be easier finding another intake with a tapped connection???

All the various manifold I have seen I usually tapped below the carb, in the flat area away from the engine. SOme have the smaller holes others like my 261 truck manifold have the larger 6 sided brass connector that allows PCV hook up.

Problem is I have to remove my connection brass block and install a flat pipe plug.....because the COE desing I am working with has barely 3/4 inch clearance between manifold and engine cover sheet metal.... less 1/4 inch for the insulation pad..... hood opening is about 15 inches by 22 inches.... an absolute nightmare.

That adapter was used for connecting to a period brake booster which I have located and will eventually install... it is an early vaccum assist booster remote from the master cylinder.

Gotta find one or have one machined....

Thanks for the comments...keep them coming..

Bob

i didnt know it was a coe.

I may have what you're lookng for. I'll look today.

Ive got the plastic spacers. It seems it would be easy to drill & tap it for a vacuum outlet.

Hi Spanky

Yes ..please a good look around all your stuff...... hoping you are better organized than I am......

Wrenchbender.... how thick is th plastic spacer? ......I do have the typical Phenolic 1/2 spacer for the truck but that would not allow me to drill and tap a large enough hole to connect to the brake booster.....

The original part had a 3/8 threaded pipe fitted to the spacer whcih translate to roughly a 1/2 od pipe thread.

I am working at downloading pictures on Photobuckets so I can post pictures of the truck and the tight engine compartment....

I will not give up yet...

Bob

I found the spacer, I thought I had. It's 1 3/4 thick, & has a prt. no. 2123996 stamped on it. Came from a '52 Chevrolet COE with Carter Updraft Carburetor. My spacer has no threaded port.

My plastic ones measure 5/8 in. You are right, that is not thick enough.

Thanks for looking Spanky.... I might run into clearance problems with hood of I go tooooo high. Also have to remember to match the 2 15/16 bolt pattern.

Any chance you could post a picture of that part.... or even send it to my homw email address....? Just trying to learn and enlarge my picture library.

A quick telephone quote to have one made is about 2 to 3 hours at $75 an hour....
I may try doing one with the band saw and drill press......

Wrenchbender..... I tried finding blank pieces of phenolic thermo plastic one inch thick... no luck... they suggested some more recent material but at $150 a square foot 2 foot rectangle minimum order. May cruise some industrial surplus shops for old electrical panels.... that's were I buy my copper plates for heat sinks when welding... usually get 1/4 inch old printing plates at $3.00 a pound....

Scrounging we will go !!!!

Thanks guys.

Bob

Several years ago, I fabricated a balance tube between the venturis of a Weber carburetor for an MGB so intake manifold pulsations would dampen out a little. I used a piece of white oak wood. It can be worked with a bandsaw and a belt sander, and it's dense enough to accept threads from a pipe tap. The vacuum nipple could also be a press fit in a drilled hole, secured by epoxy. Hickory or Mahogany might also be possible options. You can bore an accurate hole for the main passage with a Forstner bit in a drill press. Once the prototype is built, you can decide whether or not to continue to run it, or use it as a pattern to duplicate the part in aluminum or phenolic.
Jerry

I've got plenty of Micarta... Should still have close to a ton and a half.. Layers of canvas with a phenolic resin holding it all together, just so we're talking about the same stuff. Have brown and black.
If you have a drawing I can make you one for the labor, I'll throw in the material.

Grigg