The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Shifting and Jamming

1949 Model 3100 Panel truck with three on the tree. I properly adjusted the gear shift lever as prescribed in the "Shop Manual" but the shift still jams at times, perhaps it's the position of the control rods in their respective swivels. Does anyone know how much of the control rod should be sticking out of the swivels, perhaps this measurement is off? Further, any other suggestion on what to do to get it to stop binding up when I shift, the ‘Control Housing” mechanism was serviced when I restored the truck, and there is plenty of grease in it? Does the control shaft spring go bad, or is there some other problem common to these units? Thanks for the help.

God bless,

Dave

Here's some info that might help.

3 Speed Manual Column Shifter Adjustment

The parts in the box on the steering column get worn. You can take it apart & rebuild it. You can build the worn parts up with weld. You can rub the cover across sand paper to tighten up around the shaft's.

Allan:

Thanks, but it does not help, I have seen that article before and it is for a diffrent type or set up, 1962-67, but again I thank you for the suggestion. Wrenchbender, I underatand the welding, but what do you mean regarding the sandpaper across the cover. What is your thoughts on the rebuilt unit that Jim Carter sells, are they any better? Thanks for the help

Dave

When you take the top off you will see what I mean. The bearing surface for the shaft is the 2 halves of the case. By sanding down the top you can take up for any wear in the houseing's. If you have acsess to welding & a grinder you can do it your self & don't need a rebuilt one, although Carter's is a good source for part's. I use an acceteline torch & brass rod to build up the levers but someone sharp with a Mig could do it easier.

Dave - here's the inside of the box, note on the left side fork one corner is slightly worn, if yours are worse then that they need building up as Wrenchbender sez .... also note the jamming is always a result of sloppy shifting, once you see the inside you might get a better understanding of the way to handle shifting so it doesn't jam .... also make sure the spring is in position and not broken and that in neutral the forks are perfectly lined up

Bill

Bill:

Thank you, great insight. As to the left fork, it looks ok to me in the picture but you say it needs to be built up. Are there any specks to go by so as to get the right fit and clearance when welding them ? Second, do you know where I can get a replacement spring if mine is broken or worn? Third, how do you align the forks so they are even when in neutral, Fourth and final, no one answered the question on how much of the shift rods should be showing above the swivels in order to get a smooth movement? Thanks again, I truly appreciate it. Happy New Year, may the Lord bless you!


Dave

that fork isn't really "bad", just starting to show some wear, but they all should be a crisp square corner with the opening of the fork only very slightly wider then the pawl that moves between them

I'm not sure which vendors carry the springs, but I recall seeing them listed someplace as well as the rubber bellows, and I believe the bushings for the swivels - worst case, find a used original box to get good parts from, no need to spend a hundred for someone else to do it

once you take the top off the box you'll be able to see how to line up the forks, which will also answer how much of the rod should poke thru the clamp - that's most of what lines them up

Bill