The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235, *848 Valve Seats

Experts,
Quick question... I am forever learning new things from this site, which am so very grateful.
I've been reading about replacing valve seats with hardened types in heads like my 235, *848 casting.
As I Google valve seat replacement, I now learn that some heads have pressed-in seats where others are integral.
I guess my quick question is, which does my *848 head have?

Jerry

All stovebolts have integral valve seats.

Thanks Panic.
So I guess to "restore" my rusty seats, I would probably have to have the head machined and "false seats" inserted huh? I'm feeling woozy all the sudden...

If it were me, I would consider how and how much you will be driving the vehicle. Depending on how you drive, ie cruising, hauling, roding, sunday driving etc., original seats can be used with today's unleaded fuels and one can reasonably expect to loose 15 to 25 percent of the seat life. If it is something you will only be using to show off and a weekend driver, then I wouldn't bother with the expense of changing the seats.

Thanks for the tip, Builder.

Approxamately, what is the cost of replacing the valve seats with hardened ones

38,
I had good success with the CarQuest machine shop. They sent my head to London and did good and very reasonable work on it. I didn't get the valve seats replaced.

I just had my 848 head resurfaced, magnafluxed, seats replaced and cleaned for $150. BBT Machine shop, Tarpon Springs, FL.

That's very reasonable, I've heard up to $35.00 per seat + the valve.

I agree with builder, regind the seats and it will last you a lifetime. I've got a wench truck thats has got the crap worked of it for the last six years with original seats with no problems.

Thing is, I wasn't kidding about "rusty seats". This engine sat on the ground for 20 years with valve cover off... YIKES! All valves stuck... some open, some closed, all had to be hammered out... Entire rocker assembly, guides and valves shot. All that's really left and possibly salvageable is the casting.
I'm afraid there is too much pitting for re-grinding the seats. I am imagining they will have to be machined with counterbores to accept new, hardened, false seats.
Now I also have a 235, *319 casting head and the seats in it can be ground. I was just in focus of the higher ratio combustion *848 head.
Ttod and Builder, your practical approach makes the best sense. I was stoked to have a 261 engine with a 235, *848 combination (As I understand it, the hot-rodders preference). I'm not a hot-rodder though and there's only a slight difference in the combustion chambers between the *848 and the *319 heads, anyway.
Why do I make things so complicated? I do plan on drilling the steam holes in the 235 head to match the block.
Thanks for all the responses and tips! I won't scrap the *848. I'll just set it aside for another day. I learned a lot here! Sometimes talking it out with friends is my best medicine.
Merry Christmas to you all!

Jerry