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1950 chevy 3100, Engine 1954 235

I was going to check the valve lash tonight. After a drive to warm up the engine I pulled the cover and found this

bent rod pic

I had noticed a noise, but thought it was chattering Valves.

video

Looks like that is the only bent rod.

Questions
Do I need to replace all rods as a set? Or only the bent rod.

My engine is a 54 235, Where is a good source to purchase push rods?

Should I be concerned about any other damaged parts?

Ill be spending some time with the search feature, but any suggestions would be appreciated.

I've never changed out a push rod before. Going to be a learning experience for me.

Thanks

Just the one that is bent. Had the engine not been run in a while, or is it a fresh rebuild?

The reason that push rod bent is because that valve stuck for some reason.

You may have a valve sticking,I did on my 216.You may be able to straighten the push rod,just lay it on a block of wood and tap it with a hammer till it's straight.
To take it out just loosen the adjuster and slide the rocker sideways.

You can get them at FLAPS but measure the one You have and tell that to the salesman when you order it.Or You can order from one of the venders ,the rocker will slide against the spring so You can get it out of the way to get the push rod out ,if you spin the other ones with you're fingers ,turning the engine over to get the pressure of the valve spring off , you'll be able to check to see if there are any other bent ones,as long as you're already working on the valves.

Pete

The truck had been sitting in my garage for a few years. I have been driving it very little the last couple of month.

I rebuilt the carb (carter YF) a few weeks ago. After I reinstalled the rebuilt carb I started the truck thank that when I noticed the loud knock, lasted a few seconds but went away. I guess that when it got bent.

I think that is the #6, intake?

Should I put #6 at TDC before I loosen the adjusterand slide the rocker?

Thanks again

Gus, sent you an email.

Ok.

I turned the motor over till the bent rod was loose, Loosened the adjuster, slid the rocker, and removed the rod. The rod length is 10 5/8

removed rod pic

Tried to straighten it with mallet and vice with soft jaws, But its bent close to the lobe.

pic after straighten attemp

Ill check the flaps when they open.

Tring to get it going to get the Christmas tree.

Once I get the replacement rod installed
What gap setting should I set it at since everything will be cold?


Thanks to all who replied.

Setting it to the hot spec will allow you to start the engine. Let the temp normalize and recheck the lash.

Just got back from Orielly and Napa

The Bent Push rod I removed from the truck is 10 5/8" in length

Both Orielly and Napa tell my the 54 235 call for a push rod length 10.819 Aprox 10 7/8"

I also had them check the 216 push rod. They are 10.465 inch long

the 235 are longer than what I have and the 216's are shorter.

Where can I find a 235 push rod 10 5/8 inch?

Or has someone installed the wrong push rods in the truck?

Thanks

The hyd. lifter car 235 and the truck 235 use different push rods so you have to tell that to the counter guy ,if you're truck has a hyd. lifter car engine just tell them it's for a 54 bel air with a 235 if you have a 54 truck engine did you tell them it's for a 54 -3100 ?


I have a 55 235 car engine in my 52-3100 now so when I order parts I have to tell them it's for a 55 bel air car.



Pete

From 1956 and onwards all car 235s had hydraulic lifters. Up through 1955, didn't hydraulic lifters on only come with 235 engines on passenger cars with a Powerglide transmission?

Rockauto.com shows two different lengths of pushrods for 1954/55 Bel Air 235 engines (for 235s with and without Powerglide). One length of pushrod is shown in 1956.

Heres my engine info
my block cast number is 3835911 con d 26 4
Head cast number 3835913 con d 20 4


S/N next to distributor
0594578F547

I checked rock auto site 54, 56 belair 235. still have not seen a push rod at 10 5/8
pic


I'm still searching

Hopefully someone can tell by the engine info what kind of 235 is in my 50

Thanks

DADA50

Your block is a 54 FIRST SERIES truck engine...

Your valve push rods are here part # 3836261 and are listed as being 10 3/4 in. ...

You may want to double check the length by removing one of your other valve push rods and measuring it ...

Thanks for the info and link healingbear

Either way the one the auto parts stores can get is over 10 7/8 for a 54 truck 235.

If I could find one 10 3/4 I should be able to get the adjustment.

So far I have Napa, Orielly, and Carquest looking for me. I'm ready to break out the button set and wack...(Tap) on it again

I have that RP3018 from orielly on order. Its listed at 10.819 inches. That RP3018 dose crossreference to the number healingbear linked to. Ill just have to wait and compare when it comes in tomorrow.

Thanks

Just to add to the confusion a bit:
The 3835911 casting was used in several applications from '53 thru '55, I have one in my truck, which was out of a '54 Powerglide car. It was also used on the early 6-cyl Corvettes.

Your engine number doesn't compute with any of the charts I've seen. A '54 truck motor would end in F54X for a 1/2 ton. Could it be that the "7" at the end is actually a "Z" ? If so, it would be a '54 Passenger car, solid lifter engine. Maybe that will help the parts guy a little.

At any rate, good luck in locating your pushrod.

You are correct Waldo53
it is a z
s/n pic
So I do have a 54 passenger car 235. I guess that would explain the orange paint I found.
Thanks for the S/N info. That really helps me.

I pick up the push rod that orielly ordered for it. It is the exact length as the one I pulled out.

The confusion came when they list it as being 10.819 inches long. The actual length of the new rod is 10 5/8.

Here is a comparison pic
pic 1
pic 2

The new one is a larger diameter
original is 1/4 inch new one is 5/16
pic3
Is there any concern over the new rod being thicker?
My plan is to install this new rod. Set the lash cold to spec .006 .018 then warm it up and recheck the lash.
Or is the lash setting not the same since I now know it is a car engine?
Ill be searching the net
Thanks

8-cylinder orange paint on a passenger car Blue Flame Six? Sometimes, over the years, these good old engines get no respect.

I wouldn't be concerned about the extra thickness as long as it seats correctly at both ends.

The valve in question is an intake valve and would be set at .006 hot. A general rule of thumb is to add .002 to the normal lash when setting cold, (making it .008) then readjust after it's been completely warmed up.

AMAZING!!

Installed the new rod

Check the existing lash on all valves, wrote them down, they were all off

Set the lash to the car 235 settings. cold set to .006in, 016ex ,(started before I read your post Waldo53)

started it and it sounds so good.

video..cold settings

even at the cold setting it sounds 10x better than before.

Next step is to go for a drive, warm it up and reset the lash hot.

I also need to count the teeth on my fly wheel I suspect it may be the 216 flywheel. Then Ill be able to dial in the timing. right now I have it timed to the ball and advanced a little.

Thanks to all

Sounds like you're making good progress. On setting the timing, make sure you set the gap/dwell first, then (and I might catch some flack for this) forget the timing light except for initial dial-in, and just keep advancing the timing a little (by turning the distributor CCW) until on a test drive you hear pinging on long accelerations, then back it down just under that threshold. I've got my '54 motor so advanced that I can barely see the ball in the window with a timing light but it starts instantly, accelerates strong, (well, for a 235 it does) and gets better mileage than the "book" timing method.

Thanks for the timing tips.
I have the pertronix set up for the ignition.

It has been starting well, running ok , just a little tail pipe smoke at acceleration

Once the valves are set, I'll test drive and check for improvement
Thanks

Just wanted to say Thank you to you all who assisted me on this thread.

Got the Tree today in My Dads 50 Chevy

Christmas tree pic

Thanks