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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,196 Posts1,057,395 Members48,469 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 52 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 52 | So, a few years back I got a job in DC which mean 37 miles of hell each way. As a result I ended up selling my vehicles at the time (a Diesel Escort and a '66 C20) to get a Kia. Now, the Kia has been surprisingly good to me. 83,000 miles in under 3 years, 33mpg average, etc, but it's boring and I miss my truck. Recently my job moved to more of a country setting and while my commute got longer in mileage (46-48 miles each way) it got much friendlier. It's not 80% 55mph single-lane roads and a stretch of heavy stoplights just before I arrive at my destination. I've convinced my wife that I no longer need something quite as economical as the Kia and she agreed that I should get a fun vehicle again. So the hunt is on for something entertaining, preferably built before 1970, relatively safe (no tiny Fiat's or ChevyII's), and atleast 20mpg in my commuting environment. I was leaning toward a 1966 Mercedes 250S (another car I once owned) but while the drivetrains are bulletproof the peripherals are not, and they are grossly expensive to replace ($800 for a heater blower, etc). I came upon a somewhat neglected '66 Shortbed Stepside recently that I am eyeing. It has a 250 with a full set of Clifford parts (2-barrel carb/intake and headers). The body was patched reasonably well but never finished. Best part is it's cheap. My car budget after purchasing the truck would leave my $3000-$4000 to spend on making it reliable. So here's the $64,000 question. What would I have to go through for a consistent 20+mpg out of the '66 Shortbed, and what else is necessary to make it into a 100mile/day commuter (and I don't think this is impossible). I love straight 6's, so the 250 is staying though I will probably go through it before pressing it into regular duty. My major question is transmission-related. What would be the best course of action for the trans? I love column-shift, but I figure that the easiest way to make a nice DD with good mileage is a T5 swap. Those go fairly easily into a '66 without changing the rear end, right? Or is there a modern option for overdrive while retaining the column shift, short of locating an old BorgWarner OD unit? And how do I tell what rear end is in the truck currently when i go check it out? Is 20mpg possible with just a rear end change, 3.0X's perhaps? My old '66 C20 with a 292 was my only vehicle for almost 4 years so I think I know what I'm getting into here. I wasn't driving nearly as far back then, but I also didn't have nearly as much money to spend on pre-emptive repairs  | | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 942 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 942 | I'm sure you'll get plenty of replies, but I drove a '66 C-10 as a Daily Driver for 9 1/2 years, not that long ago. My Daily Driver today is a '72 C-10. What would concern me the most up in your neighborhood though would be the harsh winters. I would not drive a nice old truck in Road Salt. We get very little here and I avoid it as much as I can, but anytime it does get driven in it, I'll be out there with a garden hose. Even if it's dark and freezing cold. It would be nice to also have a winter beater for the rough days.
Bill
'60-'72 Chev/GMC Fan GMC 9500 Fan Detroit Diesel Fan
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 52 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 52 | That's why I'm not starting with a "nice old truck". There's a '66 for sale here that has been patched up a few times. The PO welded in new rockers, cab corners, mounts, etc so it's solid, but it was never sanded or filled and painted. So it's kinda ugly. I don't mind ugly, it makes it even more fun if I can have a slightly ugly '66 that is reliable and economical. I figure I'll hose it as best I can during salty times and redo the patches in a few years if need be. Atleast they make everything for the 60-66 pickups.
And for really bad weather I will have a winter beater, a 80's 4wd that gets horrible mileage. If that can't make it to work I stay home. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 | My '65 with a 250 gets 20 mpg with a Saginaw 4-speed & stock 3.73 rear-end. I never exceed 60 mph, and drive 45 most of my 21-mile commute. It's pretty stock, though rebuilt (.030 over) several years ago. It'll pull a trailer with a car on it no problem, and is a grin every time I get in it. I say: "Go for it!"
cm If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.1965 Chevy C10 | | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 | And how do I tell what rear end is in the truck currently when i go check it out?
To check rear end ratio jack up one tire if you have an open diff, or both tires if you have a working posi or locking differential. Rotate the tire one full revolution for posis and lockers and 2 full revolutions for open diffs. Carefully count the number of full revolutions the driveshaft makes. This is your gear ratio. In other words, if the drive shaft turns 3 ¾ turns, you probably have a 3.73 gear ratio. Turning the tire for twice the number of full revolutions and dividing the drive shaft revolutions by two will give you a more accurate reading.
Hope that helps! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 96 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 96 | I am currently building a 66 gmc for a daily driver, 350 TBI, 700r4, air ride rear, disc brakes, power steering, cannot wait to get it going. Kieth
66 GMC SWB 65 Chevy LWB 65 GMC SWB
918-446-2245
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 564 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 564 | My daily driver is a '61 Suburban. My wife's is a '61 Corvair station wagon. Neither is without it's troubles, but the Suburban is an on-going restoration project, so I expect it to have some issues. If it was restored already, there's no reason in the world not to use it daily.
This year's road trips in the Suburban: Michigan/Indy/Ohio: 3,000 miles Decature, Illinois: 1,500 miles Martinsville, VA twice: 500 miles each time Daytona Florida: 800 miles Bristol, TN: 500 miles
Plus a bunch of other little stuff, including a trip to Alabama, down into Atlanta a dozen times (90 miles each way), and everywhere else you'd drive a car.
DRIVE IT! -Brad
Last edited by Brad54; 12/07/2010 4:55 PM.
SOUTHERN FALL GABfestOctober 6 ~ Commerce, Georgia Details here!Never Pee on an Electric Fence. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 942 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 942 | This year's road trips in the Suburban: Michigan/Indy/Ohio: 3,000 miles Decature, Illinois: 1,500 miles Martinsville, VA twice: 500 miles each time Daytona Florida: 800 miles Bristol, TN: 500 miles I'm going to guess that you are a NASCAR fan. Bill
'60-'72 Chev/GMC Fan GMC 9500 Fan Detroit Diesel Fan
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 564 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 564 | This year's road trips in the Suburban: Michigan/Indy/Ohio: 3,000 miles Decature, Illinois: 1,500 miles Martinsville, VA twice: 500 miles each time Daytona Florida: 800 miles Bristol, TN: 500 miles I'm going to guess that you are a NASCAR fan. Bill HA! Actually, no, I can't stand NASCAR. Indy/Ohio/Michigan was for work and to visit family. Bristol was to cover a car show Daytona was during Thanksgiving for the Turkey Rod Run and a trip to the beach. Decatur was for a car show (is there anything NASCAR in Illinois?!) and Martinsville is really funny... I've got a good friend who lives there. I've known him 6 or 7 years. He's in the industry (restoration), I crewed on his Targa Newfoundland Mustang a couple years ago, and I've gone to his place several times to do stories with him. The last trip up there, I got lost going to another shop and drove past "Martinsville Speedway." I got back to his place and said "Hey, I drove past the speedway... is that the Martinsville that's the NASCAR track?" He smiled real big and said "I'm very proud of the fact that you've come up here four times, and never realized that." -Brad
Last edited by Brad54; 12/12/2010 4:35 AM.
SOUTHERN FALL GABfestOctober 6 ~ Commerce, Georgia Details here!Never Pee on an Electric Fence. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 22 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 22 | Hot Rod, thanks for the great info. I have a 66' GMC 'Burb with 305 V6 and looking to make my daily driver. Been wondering how to check the rear gear ratio and your explanation was timely. I'm guessing the 3.75 ratio would be the best for highway speeds ( 60 - 70 mph )? If not, what would the best ratio be while keeping the RPMs low and MPG high? Also, how difficult would it be to change rear end gears. Oh, it has the factory 3 on the tree. Really a great truck. Thanks again. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Decatur was for a car show (is there anything NASCAR in Illinois?!) Actually, there is. Chicagoland Speedway up in Joliet, which also hosts an IRL race and NHRA. Never been there myself, Indianapolis is actually closer to me. On topic, I don't have a '60-'66, but I do use my '55 with the stock brakes/suspension/overdrive tans and a mildy hopped up 235 as a daily driver (exept for winter, the '85 Blazer 4x4 is used for that). If the '55 can handle it, a '66 should be able to no problem.
Bill Burmeister | | |
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