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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,096 Posts1,056,488 Members48,444 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 | Removed my intake/exhaust manifold off my 55 235 and noticed the balance weight,not sure if it's called that, was getting stuck on the manifold as I turned it to see if it was working properly. Upon futher inspection, I noticed the shaft was slightly bent and was the cause of it hitting and jarring against manifold. My first thought was to get my grinder and hit the manifold to make room for the offset. Came to my senses and 86'd that idea. I'm leary of trying to bend it back for fear of snapping it off due to time and rust. Does someone have a step by step on how to remove and fix Heat Riser Shaft? Searched forum and couldn't find anything concrete on procedure. I am aware that Chevs of the 40s sells an oversize shaft, but should I cut the old shaft off, and is the "butterfly" welded on the shaft?? Thanks... Kato | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 | Have you taken the manifold apart, spliting the top half from the bottom?
The butterfly is welded to the shaft.
Since you have located a replacement shaft, I would try and carefully bend it back into shape. If it breaks then go for the replacement, if not, you have fixed it. The shaft is probably stronger than you think. If there is a lot of slop in the shafy to manifold clearance an oversize shaft might be a good idea. If there is a lot of black soot around the shaft, there is leakage. It is your call if you want to go through the effort to replace it, I don't think a little leakage hurts much of anything. Or, you could just find another manifold.
1946 1-ton Panel 1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 | MikeE, I have not separated them yet. There doesn't appear to be excessive slop, but I will get a better feel as soon as I remove all the rust. I guess I can heat it up and then try to bend it back into shape. And as you mentioned, if it works, it's fixed! If it doesn't, I may just take it to a machine shop and have them fix it...I'm no welder! As far as the soot goes, don't believe I had much or any at all...more rust than anything else. Thanks for your thoughts on the matter!
Kato | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 | I wouldn't seperate it untill you see if you can bend it into shape. It is not an overly hard job to do, but if you can avoid it and still get it fixed, that will be easier.
1946 1-ton Panel 1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 | I was looking at the setup yesterday and figured I would keep it together while I try to straighten it out. This way I can guage the amount of bend I need to clear the manifold. My initial reason for removing and separating them was for rust removal and a much needed painting of the manifold. The heat riser,at the time, was not the issue, but it is now and I know that it has to be repaired. Hopefully heating it up will allow me to bend it, without snapping it off?
Kato | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | The shaft is mailable steel and shouldn't break when you bend it. You might break the pin that holds the counterweight onto the shaft. If you do it's a simple fix, just put a new pin in it.
Last edited by Tiny; 11/28/2010 6:24 PM. Reason: fixing crappy spelling
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| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 | Tiny, Thanks for throwing in some relief. I had some doubt I would be able to straighten it out and not snap it off after all these years. | | |
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