The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1954 Chevy 235

I just bought a 1954 Chevy truck 235 to put into my 1942 3/4 ton pickup. The motor has an Offenhauser intake, Fenton headers, and dual Rochester carbs.
I have been told the 54 235 engine incorporates full pressure lubrication and all insert bearings. I have not been able to find a reference on the web to verify this claim.
Can anyone help me out by letting me know which year(s) Chevy's 235 was redesigned to include these updates? Thanks.

You are correct if it's a 1954 235,it was the first year for trucks.I would look up the casting numbers and verify what year the engine is.


Tim

Tim:
Thanks for your help. I have finally gotten the casting numbers off the block and, the motor I bought is a 1962 235 manufactured on March 2 1962.
This seems even better for my 42 3/4 ton.

Tom,

Nice find.

Can you post a photo of the front of the engine, or from the side of the front of the engine (to show the orientation of the water pump relative to the head?

The cooling systems in 1947-55 trucks benefit from relocating and replacing the water pump on 1955 and later 235/261 engines (I assume this is also the case for use in a 1942 truck). This conversion might have been done already. If not, Pre '68 Dave (on this site) makes/sells a water-pump adapter-plate (with instructions).

The height misalignment of the fan center to the radiator core is pretty bad, and the fan simply won't pull air as well as needed.
This only matters at lower speeds; above 40 mph fan position is harmless since all the air is provided by vehicle speed.
However: converting to an earlier pump reduces water flow by 42%: 8.4 GPM (per 1,000 pump RPM) vs. 14.5 GPM, and the pump speed must be increased to make up for this.

No after installing the 216 water pump with the adaptor ,I did on my 55/235 I just put in my 52-3100 you use the harmonic bal. from you're 216 because if you use the 235 bal. you'll over rev. the water pump it's in the instuction sheet that comes with the ad. I ran that combo for about 1000 miles with no problem at all,and the engine stayed at 180 degrees ,sadly I've put her away for the winter now because Il. uses ALOT of salt.Also if you use the ad. if you break down with a bad water pump you can use a stock 216 pump and get one at any FLAPS they will have to order it but it's a stock item.

Pete

Thanks for the tips guys. I appreciate the heads up on this engine swap.
Yesterday I took a tape measure and checked the distance from the block to the front of the fan on both my engines. The measurement for the 216 was just under 6 inches. The 235 was also just under 6 inches. Therefore, I suspect someone has already made the WP swap on the 235. The seller told me this motor came out of a 52 Chevy pickup so that is highly likely.
The 235 came with a 3 speed trans and an old Hurst shifter mounted. I plan to keep my original 4 speed trans for the 42 pickup. As a result, I'd like to ask if it's more practical to just pull the 216, leave the trans in place, and mate the 235 to the trans in the truck or, does it makes more sense to pull the trans, and mate it to the 235 outside the truck? I will be installing new motor mounts all around regardless.
I am aware of the possible difference in flywheel/clutch size. But, I won't know what's on the 235 till I separate the engine and trans. With my 42 truck being a 3/4 ton, I prefer to keep the original clutch & flywheel.
I'll try to get a photo of the water pump on the 235 and post it here tomorrow. Thanks again for the advice and help.

because if you use the 235 bal. you'll over rev. the water pump

It's not the pump, it's the fan.

Thanks for the input.
The 1962 235 I bought came out of a 1954 Chevy truck. The motor has starter, gen, water pump, distributor, fuel pump all attached and in good condition.
I measured the overall length of this motor and the 216 now in my 42 3/4 ton truck. Both engines are the same overall length (including water pump). There is a physical difference in the two water pumps. The WP on the 216 has an intake tube that is angled down slightly and the heater hose fitting comes straight out on the right side. The 235 engine has a WP inlet tube that is straight out the right side of the pump, while the heater hose fitting is angled slightly upward. Aside from these differences, there does not appear to be any significant difference in WP configuration.

It appears it has had the shortened waterpump installed when it was installed in the '54.

That's what I thought. I'll get some numbers off the WP (if they are there) and see if I can ID the 235 pump before I try to install the motor in my truck.
BTW, while I'm writing, I plan to pull the 216, and leave the 4 speed trams in the truck during this engine swap. I'd be interested in opinions about whether this is the best way to do this swap or, if I should pull the trans with the 216, and mate it to the 235 outside the truck? Thanks.

Leave the tranny in place. Pull the floor pan, place a beam, fencepost or what have you on blocks in the floor and use ratchet straps to suspend the tranny.

Thanks for the input. I may not need to suspend the trans, as the 42 3/4 ton trucks had the rear mounts on the sides of the bell housing. I will however support it from below when I install the 235.
Of course today, after de-greasing the front end, I found that my front leaf springs have fractures going about 3/4 of the way across the main leaf of each spring. I've ordered new springs and shackles so, that job will need to be completed before I can drop in the 235. So it goes.

The bell housing must come out with the engine. You can't remove it without removing the flywheel.

Thanks for the info. First time for me to separate a stove bolt from it's trans. I'll plan on pulling the bell housing with the engine, and support the gearbox from above with a strap as recommended.