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Joined: Apr 2008
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I want to upgrade my 1949 suburban to bigger 6cyl(292) and a 700r4 trans but i also want to use the stock original steering column and 3 spd shifter has anyone done this? If so how do you go about doing it? i know im going to need some or maybe even use the existing bar i am not really worried about being able to put the trans all the way down into low as long as i can get park r n od and d ill be ok with that


Stovebolt CHEVROLET
1949 Chevrolet Suburban
Non stovebolt CHEVROLET
1958 Impala Convertible
1963 Impala Convertible
MY 1949 SUBURBAN
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3Le4kQmkKGrHqQOKkIEyOD6OnQjBMlR5ZKJng_121.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3LfyCQEWkKGrHqEOKkEEyNoRGLUBMlR8HrYzg_121.jpg
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good luck on that! can't imagine how the H pattern shift setup could be 'adapted' to operate the straight line, small movement pattern for an automatic 4 speed - might be able to adapt an original early truck hydramatic column somehow

OTOH, it's possible to cut the column and replace the top part with one from a newer automatic truck that a 700R4 shift quadrent/control could be added to, which is what I'm working on for a project 57 panel

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
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Have done this dozens if not hundreds of times. First pop the chassis plug off the top of the shifter box, wipe grease away, have a helper hold the shifter in the neutral gate as though one was going to shift in 1st or reverse and then weld the tang on the selector into the notch of the 1st/reverse shift arm. Cut off 2nd/3rd arm. Place the shifter in the position you want it in park. Turn the shifter arm on the trans all the way clockwise, this is park. Measure from the hole in the arm on the column to the hole in the arm on the trans and make a rod this length. I just bend 90's on the end of the rod but you may want to thread and use a clevis for adjustability. Drill for cotter pins. The distance the shift lever moves or the ease of movement can be changed by lenghtening or shortening the distance of the hole to the shaft on the trans shift arm. Every trans for the last 45 years has the Park-Reverse-Neutral-Drive pattern so a shift indicator really isn't necessary but can be fabbed if the driver is to dumb to know what gear he's in. Since the two shift arms and the rod between them move through an arc in the same plane it will shift a two, three, four, or forty speed trans. The shift is very forgiving but BE SURE to get the TV cable adjusted correctly. I think the instructions are quite clear and do have pictures but this is the only forum one can't post them on.



Evan
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Originally Posted by coilover
Have done this dozens if not hundreds of times. First pop the chassis plug off the top of the shifter box, wipe grease away, have a helper hold the shifter in the neutral gate as though one was going to shift in 1st or reverse and then weld the tang on the selector into the notch of the 1st/reverse shift arm. Cut off 2nd/3rd arm. Place the shifter in the position you want it in park. Turn the shifter arm on the trans all the way clockwise, this is park. Measure from the hole in the arm on the column to the hole in the arm on the trans and make a rod this length. I just bend 90's on the end of the rod but you may want to thread and use a clevis for adjustability. Drill for cotter pins. The distance the shift lever moves or the ease of movement can be changed by lenghtening or shortening the distance of the hole to the shaft on the trans shift arm. Every trans for the last 45 years has the Park-Reverse-Neutral-Drive pattern so a shift indicator really isn't necessary but can be fabbed if the driver is to dumb to know what gear he's in. Since the two shift arms and the rod between them move through an arc in the same plane it will shift a two, three, four, or forty speed trans. The shift is very forgiving but BE SURE to get the TV cable adjusted correctly. I think the instructions are quite clear and do have pictures but this is the only forum one can't post them on.
Thanks you exactly what i wanted to hear and pm sent


Stovebolt CHEVROLET
1949 Chevrolet Suburban
Non stovebolt CHEVROLET
1958 Impala Convertible
1963 Impala Convertible
MY 1949 SUBURBAN
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3Le4kQmkKGrHqQOKkIEyOD6OnQjBMlR5ZKJng_121.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3LfyCQEWkKGrHqEOKkEEyNoRGLUBMlR8HrYzg_121.jpg
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coilover. That's good info. Regarding pic post: We do it all the time, but you need a web host to load them from.


Drew
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This guy did something similar to what coilover explained.


Steve

'49 3800
'52 3600
'57 3100

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seems easier to me to cut the mast jacket off above the steering box - replace with the jacket from 67-72 truck/van automatic [non-tilt] ... done, complete with indicator - and it saves a 3 speed shift box for someone that needs it grin

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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Originally Posted by Ghostrider
This guy did something similar to what coilover explained.
Thanks for the link is that trans hump really need to be that way for the 700r4 or will the original flat style one work??


Stovebolt CHEVROLET
1949 Chevrolet Suburban
Non stovebolt CHEVROLET
1958 Impala Convertible
1963 Impala Convertible
MY 1949 SUBURBAN
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3Le4kQmkKGrHqQOKkIEyOD6OnQjBMlR5ZKJng_121.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3LfyCQEWkKGrHqEOKkEEyNoRGLUBMlR8HrYzg_121.jpg
Joined: Mar 2004
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[/quote]
Thanks for the link is that trans hump really need to be that way for the 700r4 or will the original flat style one work?? [/quote]





I don't know the answer to that, never put an automatic in one of these. Maybe somebody who's done it will have some input.


Steve

'49 3800
'52 3600
'57 3100

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
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I believe that tunnel modification would be due to the extreme frame changes he did [S10], don't think it'd take more than a little massage with a BFH in a stock frame, there's lotsa room under there

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 256
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Originally Posted by squeeze
I believe that tunnel modification would be due to the extreme frame changes he did [S10], don't think it'd take more than a little massage with a BFH in a stock frame, there's lotsa room under there

Bill
BFH LOL Thanks


Stovebolt CHEVROLET
1949 Chevrolet Suburban
Non stovebolt CHEVROLET
1958 Impala Convertible
1963 Impala Convertible
MY 1949 SUBURBAN
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3Le4kQmkKGrHqQOKkIEyOD6OnQjBMlR5ZKJng_121.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3LfyCQEWkKGrHqEOKkEEyNoRGLUBMlR8HrYzg_121.jpg
Joined: Oct 2010
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I don't want to hijack this thread but what does it take to install a 700R4 to a straight six?

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Originally Posted by bowtiefan
I don't want to hijack this thread but what does it take to install a 700R4 to a straight six?
On a 292(maybe 261 and 270 too) it will bolt right up from what i have seen but on the 216,235 you need to buy and adapter plate rom buffalo enterprises or another company which runs almost $400


Stovebolt CHEVROLET
1949 Chevrolet Suburban
Non stovebolt CHEVROLET
1958 Impala Convertible
1963 Impala Convertible
MY 1949 SUBURBAN
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3Le4kQmkKGrHqQOKkIEyOD6OnQjBMlR5ZKJng_121.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k237/bigtony55/B3LfyCQEWkKGrHqEOKkEEyNoRGLUBMlR8HrYzg_121.jpg
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,775
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My dad changed out a 3sp on a 69 f100 in favor of a c4 about twenty years ago. I'm not for sure how he did it, but with a torch and welder he always seemed to get it done.


1954 3600 Chevy Truck
"The Fake Truck"
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