The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop New Brake Lines

First the back ground and then the question.

I will be assembling my 1946 chassis this winter. It will be mostly stock with a 235 and S-10 five speed. I have installed a 1979 Camaro Z-28 rear end (3:42 gear). I plan to purchase a disc brake kit for the stock spindles and I believe that they use 70-77 Camaro parts. I plan to fabricate a bracket and use a non-power disc/drum master cylinder.

The question is about the brake lines. It's seems that stock Camaro brake lines could be purchased and re-bent and modified as required. That would guarantee the correct line diameter and fitting sizes throughout the whole system. The only real problem should be changing the tubing route from fire wall to the under floor to find the MC location.

What do you think? I realize that straight tubing is cheap. I think I can hadle the bending but I worry about my flaring quality. I do not own the flare tool yet so that would be part of the cost offset. Maybe I'm trying to throw money at it just to feel safer. Maybe the compromise is to use the ready made pieces from the auto parts store.

I would not trust myself with a flaring device but thats just me. I would go with the ready made pieces just to be safe. If the pressure gets messed up then you will have problems...

I think that buying the lines for a camaro is a big waste of time and money. They will be all wrong for your truck and you will end up needing longer or shorter lines and making your own in the end.
I flared all my lines for my truck, 9 separate lines, with no problems. I used stainless, which is hard to flare, if you are worried use regular steel, it's easy.
Buy a good flaring tool form Ridgid or Imperial, a good quality set and not an import one makes it easier.
Call someone like inline tube or classic tube and they can sell you everything you need, line, tube nuts, bender, flaring tool, proportioning valve, flex lines, line clips... They will make sure you get what you need for your application, assuming you explain what you have. Ask if you need any residual pressure valves because of your master cylinder location.

You can do it, and we can help, any more questions?

Grigg

I've heard several people say they bent their own lines and took them to a brake shop to be professionally flared. Maybe this is an option for you. I'm pretty sure it will be my route, also.

Jason

46SortaStock -

I bought steel lines at the auto supply store. They come in several lengths with the flares and on them. You can join them together for longer runs or cut them and flare the one end. Flaring is easy, especially with steel. The flaring tool is inexpensive. Steel brake lines are pretty inespensive, too. I wouldn't buy anything pre bent because you are doing a "custom job" and I don't think pre bent will work for you.

Joe

46 - If you can assemble your chassis and modify thge brake system, fabricate brackets, etc. then you can certainly flare brake lines. It's not rocket science, just go for it.

Last night I remembered the need for the residual valves and the proportioning valve and realized that I would end up cutting the Camaro tubes in several places.

I googled several different ways but did not find a site that would tell me what size tube to use for Camaro brakes. 3/16? 1/4? I'll keep looking. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help guys. I've been flopping on this idea for a while. I'll see if it's not too late for Sant to bring me a flaring tool.

The general rule is 3/16 for disk brakes and 1/4 for drums.
Depending on the size of stuff that will cnange, like really small drums may have 3/16, and really big disk may have 1/4.
Call inline tube or one of the others and ask what size you need, and what porportioning valve you need.

The Auto Zone will loan you a flaring tool....for free!

It looks like you're running the same combination as mine....my feeling on double flares is....if you can take a cap off a bottle of soda you can successfully make good double flares. I suggest you buy the flare kit...it's not a job you're going to complete overnight or even a weekend. Make a few practice flares....if you follow the simple steps you will not have leaks.

When you get to the point where you are tying in your master, residual valves and proportioning valve you will need to do a lot of bending and making flares. Once you get the hang of making the flares, you'll get a roll of 3/16" tubing and do all the lines in your truck.

Some great sites for brake info are:

http://www.mpbrakes.com
http://www.classicperform.com
http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com
http://www.911brakes.com

I'll also suggest that you check out Summit Racing for your residual and proportioning valves. They are much more reasonably priced and their adjustable proportioning valve lets you tune your rear brake bias to match your own specific truck and driving conditions. I've got some pics in my Shoebox album that might help.

Thanks for the links...

Suggest you check out Smiley's Racing if you want the best price on residual valves.

Flaring how to (disregard high $$$ tool, cheapo tool works same way) http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=22;t=006511;p=1#000012

have you checked www.inlinetube.com ?

I must restate that you may have bad luck with the cheap flaring tool if using stainless lines. What happens is it can't grip the line enough to withstand the pressure needed to form the flare. I bought a cheep one (OTC Stinger), it worked a few times and gave up, I was sent a new kit because the first one must have been defective, the second one did the same, I bought the Imperial brand kit, no more problems.
If using regular steel lines the cheap tool works just fine.

I contacted Inline Tubes by email on 12/5 with several questions. I have not received a response back. I did not expect same day service but I don't expect it to take weeks either.

I don't like to buy cheap tools. I still looking around for a middle of the road quality tool. I do know a Snap-On guy through our Boy Scout troop and I will talk to him this week.

Thanks for all the idea and comments.