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#695318 11/16/2010 5:21 AM
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can anyone tell me who makes a 4-6 lowering kit for 65 c10? and have any of you done one .

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Try going to www.stylintrucks.com or directly to www.djmsuspension.com . With the amount of drop you're looking for on the front , you'll likely need a combination of dropped spindles , dropped springs , and perhaps modified A - arms ! The rear will definitely need a large " C " put into the frame for clearance and likely will also require a combo of parts to accomplish the desired drop . Good luck and keep us updated !


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oldblu65 #695360 11/16/2010 12:25 PM
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thanks for the links ! maybe for a daily driver it would be better to do the 3-4 from cpp? but I got to get it down for the look I want. ride not so important.

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rodtek , go to www.newstalgiawheel.com/wheel_visualizer.asp . On left side of page , click on wheel visualizer , then select vehicle ( 60-66 Chevy truck ) at top of next page and wheel type at bottom of page . The visualizer allows to see not only what each wheel would look like on your truck , but also allows you to " lower or raise " the truck . Maybe this visual aid will help you decide how much you want to lower your truck for the look you're after ?


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Rodtek,

You can go to a 4/5 without a C-notch, I would hit up CPP, talk to Jeff or call ECE ( Early Classics Enterprises) they both have a "kit" for you to look at and decide, many guys go that route.

a suggestion, you can go with the ECE 2 1/2" drop spindle, 2" drop front springs, then go with air bag rear if you are planning to tow or carry stuff, otherwise, go with a 5" rear drop spring. I must mention that while you are doing all that make sure you replace or rebuild the F/E parts for safety.

Have you changed to disc brakes yet? They can help you with that too.

Last edited by Clyde65; 11/16/2010 8:08 PM.
Clyde65 #695551 11/17/2010 12:56 AM
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Yes , you can go without a " c " notch but your ride quality will be , well ....not very good ! I guess it comes down to what level of comfort you're looking for in the way your truck will drive .


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thanks for all the info guy's I will check it out and get back soon

rodtek1 #695671 11/17/2010 11:51 AM
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Try Part# 6372CSSK-D from Classicperform.com This kit will give you a nice start on bringing your truck down. smile


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Originally Posted by oldblu65
Yes , you can go without a " c " notch but your ride quality will be , well ....not very good ! I guess it comes down to what level of comfort you're looking for in the way your truck will drive .

I respectfully disagree. If you buy 5" rear lowering springs from a company such as CPP they have a fewer number of coils and are 1/8" less in diameter than stock. This makes the coils less stiff and gives the truck a very good ride.

To keep the load carrying capacity (if this is something you care about) you will need to install a set of Airlift springs, like these: http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/DSC01167.jpg

Last edited by Hot Rod John; 11/20/2010 2:29 PM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

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Originally Posted by Hot Rod John
Originally Posted by oldblu65
Yes , you can go without a " c " notch but your ride quality will be , well ....not very good ! I guess it comes down to what level of comfort you're looking for in the way your truck will drive .

I respectfully disagree. If you buy 5" rear lowering springs from a company such as CPP they have a fewer number of coils and are 1/8" less in diameter than stock. This makes the coils less stiff and gives the truck a very good ride.

To keep the load carrying capacity (if this is something you care about) you will need to install a set of Airlift springs, like these: http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/DSC01167.jpg


yeah, i just recently met two guys running 6" rear springs with no problems & no notch...but they don't plan to haul anything significant either....both said it takes a really big bump to bottom out, but even then it's not that harsh...not sure yet if i wanna go with 5 or 6" rear springs on mine

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FYI: I have the 5" lowering springs and there is 3-1/2" clearance between the frame and the rear axle.


In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

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thanks for all the info guy's hot rod john if you have 5" lowering springs in the rear and there is still 3-1/2 inchs of clearance, than that is the way I am going that is plenty of travel to haul anything I would put in the bed .could you post some pics or e- mail me some? thanks Mike

rodtek1 #697030 11/22/2010 12:46 AM
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Check out my build thread link at the bottom of this message.

One thing to keep in mind is my truck is a short bed stepside. Different style / length beds have different weights.

Or in other words "results my vary" dance

Last edited by Hot Rod John; 11/22/2010 12:46 AM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

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got a '66 shortbox fleetside that was lowered by the previous owner, front springs were torched 4" and a 4 inch spacer under the rear springs or trailing arms, looked cool as hell but the front springs allowed only 1" of travel between the lower control arms and the frame. every little bump and the tires would hit the inner fenders, not a nice ride at all, I took out the springs and put in 1" shorter front springs, 2" lowered drop spindles and disc brakes, she's lower than stock and still has a decent ride.

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Just a quick note, I decided to go with air springs front and rear just for stance control and ride. went to airbagit, kits are really inexpensive. 4 air springs $185.00 front mount kit 129.00 rear mt kit 129.00 gives one a lot of control over ride height and not a lot of expense. I am also installing front and rear sway bars. Kieth


ps I did not want to slam my gmc just get it where it rides great and can be lowered if I want it lower....


Originally Posted by 6tvette
got a '66 shortbox fleetside that was lowered by the previous owner, front springs were torched 4" and a 4 inch spacer under the rear springs or trailing arms, looked cool as hell but the front springs allowed only 1" of travel between the lower control arms and the frame. every little bump and the tires would hit the inner fenders, not a nice ride at all, I took out the springs and put in 1" shorter front springs, 2" lowered drop spindles and disc brakes, she's lower than stock and still has a decent ride.

Last edited by Kieth; 11/28/2010 8:02 PM.

66 GMC SWB
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Why would they put the bags inside of the coils, you do not need the coils anymore. Kieth ???

Originally Posted by likaroc13
Originally Posted by Hot Rod John
Originally Posted by oldblu65
Yes , you can go without a " c " notch but your ride quality will be , well ....not very good ! I guess it comes down to what level of comfort you're looking for in the way your truck will drive .

I respectfully disagree. If you buy 5" rear lowering springs from a company such as CPP they have a fewer number of coils and are 1/8" less in diameter than stock. This makes the coils less stiff and gives the truck a very good ride.

To keep the load carrying capacity (if this is something you care about) you will need to install a set of Airlift springs, like these: http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/DSC01167.jpg


yeah, i just recently met two guys running 6" rear springs with no problems & no notch...but they don't plan to haul anything significant either....both said it takes a really big bump to bottom out, but even then it's not that harsh...not sure yet if i wanna go with 5 or 6" rear springs on mine


66 GMC SWB
65 Chevy LWB
65 GMC SWB

918-446-2245
Kieth #700611 12/03/2010 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by likaroc13
Originally Posted by Hot Rod John
Originally Posted by oldblu65
Yes , you can go without a " c " notch but your ride quality will be , well ....not very good ! I guess it comes down to what level of comfort you're looking for in the way your truck will drive .

I respectfully disagree. If you buy 5" rear lowering springs from a company such as CPP they have a fewer number of coils and are 1/8" less in diameter than stock. This makes the coils less stiff and gives the truck a very good ride.

To keep the load carrying capacity (if this is something you care about) you will need to install a set of Airlift springs, like these: http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/DSC01167.jpg


yeah, i just recently met two guys running 6" rear springs with no problems & no notch...but they don't plan to haul anything significant either....both said it takes a really big bump to bottom out, but even then it's not that harsh...not sure yet if i wanna go with 5 or 6" rear springs on mine
Originally Posted by Kieth
Why would they put the bags inside of the coils, you do not need the coils anymore. Kieth ???

Keith,

They are helper spring air bags for overload capacity. Kind of like air shocks but much better since they are located where the load is supposed to be, in the coil spring location. Check out the link http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/DSC01167.jpg

Last edited by Hot Rod John; 12/03/2010 11:43 PM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

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One could purchase the correct Air spring and do away with the coil, much better ride and ride height control. Kieth


66 GMC SWB
65 Chevy LWB
65 GMC SWB

918-446-2245

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