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#69421 11/30/2006 10:53 PM | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | I don't want to buy something an expert will later tell me I didn't need. I am ready to buy brakes for my 51 3600 (weight the same as a 3100)and wonder if I will have front and rear disc brakes would I need a master cly with booster? I know space can be an issue with auto transmissions.
~Jim
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#69422 12/01/2006 12:09 AM | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | From my own personal experience on a 54-3100 with CCP's front discs and Caramo Borg-Warner discs on the rear, I found that a mid 70's Corvette MANUAL disc/disc master with Wilwood residual valves and adjustable proportioning valve ($39. from Summit Racing) gave me all the predictable braking I needed. Have built trucks using a power booster with a disc/disc combo I prefer the manual setup. I think the key to getting good braking performance is directly related to using the adjustable valve....which lets you dial in your own braking preferences. It eliminates potential bleeding problems that come from trying to adapt a "junkyard" prop valve. I can adjust my brake bias from inside the cab.
I've got some pics of my setup in my album.
I hope this helps. | | |
#69423 12/04/2006 6:09 AM | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 200 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 200 | Originally posted by Fla54Chevy3100:
From my own personal experience on a 54-3100 with CCP's front discs and Caramo Borg-Warner discs on the rear, I found that a mid 70's Corvette MANUAL disc/disc master with Wilwood residual valves and adjustable proportioning valve ($39. from Summit Racing) gave me all the predictable braking I needed. Have built trucks using a power booster with a disc/disc combo I prefer the manual setup. I think the key to getting good braking performance is directly related to using the adjustable valve....which lets you dial in your own braking preferences. It eliminates potential bleeding problems that come from trying to adapt a "junkyard" prop valve. I can adjust my brake bias from inside the cab.
I've got some pics of my setup in my album.
I hope this helps. Fla54Chevy3100-Are you also combining that system with a hydraulic switch to form a combination valve? | | |
#69424 12/04/2006 7:04 AM | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I switched mine to disk on all 4 wheels and used a gm disk disk porporting valve from in-line tube, everything works perfect. I would highly recommend the hydroboost setup over any vacuum booster I have tried. I have some pictures on my link. I bought the kit from http://www.hydroboost.com/. Very helpful and great service. Grigg | | |
#69425 12/06/2006 1:31 AM | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 40 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 40 | Bigchevy3600...I'm assuming that your are talking about your
3/4 ton (hence the 3600 des.) ! No one out there makes a disc brake conversion that I'm aware of (I've tried Brothers, Cl. Pts etc.)...
I did install a power brake unit from CPP & it works quite well !
I have a '53 GMC 3/4 ton with the 8 lug rims, I'm running a 350 Chevy engine with a turbo 400 auto, I mounted the booster under the frame w/out any problems ! You will have to reroute
the drivers side exhaust with 2 bends... Cpp gives you great inst.
on how to add the unit ! Hope this helps...
'53 GMC "Ranger"
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