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| | | Forums66 Topics128,043 Posts1,055,612 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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#69166 11/25/2006 7:36 AM | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 70 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 70 | I have a 63 that I switched from manual to the factory brake booster setup with a 72 truck dual MC and proportioning valve, all new. I,ve got good pedal but they feel like manual brakes. I've got good vacuum from the 350. What am I missing? In one of the forums I think I read that the pushrod from the pedal can be adjusted, could that be the answer? I'm open for any ideas. Thanks | | |
#69167 11/25/2006 4:41 PM | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Fortynine5, here's one way to test your booster, with the engine off pump your brake pedal a few times, now put your foot on the pedal and hold it down, now start the engine, if the booster is working the pedal should go closer to the floor when you start the engine, hope that helps. | | |
#69168 11/25/2006 10:33 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I had the same problem with a 63 I had. I redrilled the brackets that the pushrod from the pedal goes to to move it closer to the pivot point. Helped a lot. You pushrod should be adjusted to have a small amount of play before pushing in the booster or master cyl. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
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