The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 advise, I need some of that.

So I've been working on this engine for a little while. I'll give you some background.

I got this '59 235 for about 150 bucks a year ago. I stripped it down, replaced the pushrod cover, valve cover, oil pan, timing chain cover gaskets, replaced the timing cover seal, rear main seal, new oil pan, paint. The timing cover seal had dug a good sized groove into the crank. I'm sure this engine has a million miles on it.

I put it back in the truck, and got it fired up yesterday.

The oil leak is back comming from the timing cover, I found a freeze plug leaking coolant, The rest of the plugs probably aren't far behind. There is some pretty good valve noise, she smokes a little.

I was disappiointed to say the least, but what do you expect, right? It was a cheap engine.

I'm looking at sending it out to a machine shop for a complete rebuild, but i'm also torn... should I try to find an old 261 or "better" six to rebuild rather than this engine. It's not the original engine for the truck anyways, think I should jump to something with a little more power? What about interchangability with my 3 speed and clutch?...

Thanks guys, I value your opinions....

Hy Skidmarks, your year of truck could also be purchased with V8 power, and all the parts to convert it to V8 are available through many suppliers. I have nothing against the inline sixes, but they are a lot more expensive to rebuild than a V8, simply because the parts are rarer than V8 parts. If money is no object, and originality is your goal, by all means have the 235, or a 261 rebuilt and install that. As far as compatability with the transmission and clutch is concerned I can't think of an engine V8 or 6 that Chevy produced from 55 to 86 that couldn't be made to work with that stuff, using the correct mix of parts from over the years, hope that helps.

Yeah I'd like to stick with the 6. I love the look and sound of them.

From what i've been reading on the internet, the 261 is a little hard to find, or they are pricey....

Didn't most of the school buses in the late 50's/early 60's run 261's? You might try looking for abandoned buses that are being used as storage as a possible source, if there's still an engine in place. Several salvage yards in the rural Tennessee area used to buy up retired buses and store parts in them. Chances are anything like that has been scavenged or scrapped long ago, but it's worth a quick checkout if you see one somewhere.
Jerry

[quote=Skidmarks]but what do you expect, right? It was a cheap engine.[/quote

its a 59, it runs,it smokes and leaks oil. its more like you got a good engine cheap. since its already back in the truck and working to some degree it will afford you the time to look for an increase in power should want more. since your in tampa bay you have no hills to cross so a rebuilt 235 should be all that it needs. if its not the original engine then does it have solid or hyd. lifters?

Food for thought:

The wear groove you mention is on the balancer and not the crank and can easily be repaired using one of these easily available and common items:

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/shop/s...amp;dept=Car&searchtype=FT&Go=Go

The smoke could be from tired/hard valve stem seals also easily available:

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/7504/Chevrolet_VALVE_SEALS.html

Block plugs same story and a good valve adjustment might quiet it down too so you could potentially be only about $25.00 away from a runner. If you truck is roadworthy you can be more patient looking for a donor (like a 261) and drive it while building its next power plant.

A cheaper way of fixing the oil leak, would be put a piece of wire behind the timing cover seal to shim it out a ways. This will let the seal ride on a fresh part of the harmonic balancer that hasn't got a grove wore in it.

ditto.. I would put in a new seal, so that it isn't as far in on the harmonic balancer.

I did put in a new seal, and did space it out. There were a few different grooves in the balancer, I suspect this was done already. Maybe I should try to re position the seal again, or maybe just buy a new balancer.....

Or get that 261 I was talking with James about this morning... heh.

The speedy-sleeve is the simplest, and most permanent fix for a grooved balancer hub. It's made of stainless steel, which is much harder than the balancer material, and they last about 3 days past forever. They're so thin you don't even need to go to a different part number seal. Just warm up the sleeve a little, (I use the hot plate for the Mr. Coffee machine) spread some red LocTite on the hub (it comes in most kits) and tap the sleeve on. It shrink-fits as soon as it hits the cool balancer hub, so tap it on quickly, but gently.
Jerry

I rebuilt my 235 and it cost $2200 without replacing pistons. Just so you know..

How much of that cost was labor? It sounds like somebody really bent you over a barrel on that job. For that kind of money, I'd expect to get a rebore, new pistons, reground crankshaft, new cam & lifters, and a fully-reworked cylinder head out of the deal!
Jerry

Jerry, speedy sleeve, eh? That might just do the trick....any leads on a part number or supplier?

OK, my local engine parts guru tells me it's the same repair sleeve that fits the small block V-8's, Fel-Pro number 16202, Victor A-228, or Pioneer HB-4121-50. The Pioneer number is a rebuilders' quantity of 50 each, so you can repair a whole bunch of balancers with that one! If your parts dealer carries Pioneer, try the basic number without the suffix- - - -you might be able to get just one. Pioneer parts are often a little less expensive, but it takes a bulk-quantity distributor to stock them, usually.
Jerry

The speedy-sleeve sounds like a good fix for a leaky front seal, whether or not the balancer is grooved, or am I just looking for the easy way out and really need to replace the seal?

Thoughts?

Jerry,
You are the man!

I got a good hookup at my Napa FLAPS. They should be able to get one.

Thanks!

Always replace the seal- - - -the sleeve only adds a few thousandths to the diameter, so a new sealing lip has a much better chance of being leak-free for a considerable amount of time.
Jerry