The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 54 GM bed on a 47-53 Frame - shaving the frame

Has anyone ever shaved the top 2 1/8" of their 1947-53 frame to better fit the 1954 bed. Mar-K documented this suggestion, but I have to find someone that actually did this. I'm seriously looking into this and was hoping to find someone's completed work. Is it strong/safe if you box it?

from Mar-k
http://www.mar-k.com/54_bed_on_a_53_frame.html

A third choice that builders who are confident in their welding skills may prefer is to modify the 47-53 frame to more closely match the shape of the 54 frame. The top of the frame is chopped down about 2-1/8 inches in the area over the rear axle and is reinforced to compensate for the metal removed. The complete 54 bed could then be mounted on the earlier frame similar to its original location and the bed wood floor could be installed like the original 54 bed. The 54 front bed to frame mounting hole is about 3/4 inches different than the 47-53 bed, which requires drilling the frame for the new bolt location.

Haven't read the article yet, but from the info you give it sounds like a bad idea to me.
The small trucks already have small frames, why make it any smaller?

Can you trade your 54 bed for someone with a 47-53?, or sell and buy?

Grigg

Actually, my truck is a '54. Unfortunately my original '54 frame is rusted out. I found a '48 as a replacement. I really want to maintain the original '54 bed. I'm planning on installing a triangulated 4 link, which will minimize the stress on the back portion of the frame. I would think that boxing/reinforcing the frame would be enough. Really, its the reverse of a c-notch.

After seeing the pictures and full writeup I think it's best to leave it as a "suggestion" for sure not a strong one, and hope that no one actually attempts it.
Still doesn't look/sound like a good idea to me.

The simple option is to trim holes in the bed wood for the frame to protrude through, and cover it with some nicely curved and fabricated heavy sheet metal covers, not unlike a wheel tub just a lot smaller. Looks like about 1.5" tall above the bed floor is all that's necessary, and I'm guessing 8-10" long, and a tad wider than the frame member, so 3-4" would be plenty.
Depends on your intended use for the truck. I might have problems with it because I use trucks for what they are, and a non level floor while not a huge problem would bother me. But the number of trucks I see at shows that apparently are never used is supprising... Many of them could get away with such a modification to the bed floor.

What are your thoughts?

Grigg

Later today I'm helping a friend pick up a '54 frame he paid only $75 for. I'd pass on the early frame and keep looking for a '54. They are out there.

Some states now require that any frame modification be designed by an engineer and any welding be done by a certified welder. If you state is one of those you'll want to avoid modifying the frame.

One of the benefits of the earlier frame is the built in extra 2" of suspension travel. I'm having a hard time seeing the difference between me shaving the top of the frame or install a c-notch kit. Since I'm lowering my truck, the extra suspension travel will be ideal.

Have any of you installed a c-notch kit in one of these frames?

What do you mean by "c-notch kit"?

The way I see it "shaving" the frame is to remove the top part of the hump that gets in he way of the bed floor, in effect making your about 4" channel frame down to 2" over the rear axle, and then you need something to add strength to what's leftover. (still not a fan of this idea)

If your goal is for more upward suspension travel, then the factory frame is good, and anything you do to it to get more only makes the clearance problem with the bed even worse.

What do you think of leaving it alone and making small covers in the bed to hide the frame that pokes through?
Or am I missing how this is supposed to work/not work?

Grigg

Ok, am I missing something here, but why not just use the wooden blocks or metal spacers to space the '54 bed up the extra 2" of clearance you need, similar to that of the earlier style bed. Doesn't really seem to make much differece in my eyes. You'd just moving it up 2" which is barely noticable. Or raise the inside of the bed up the extra 2" by cutting it and re-welding it. Easy enough to do, or chop that hump out and just weldin a new portion of frame or backhalf with the proper geometry if possible. You can make anything and everything work with a little time and effort put forth and with the proper skills of course.

I've seen a '54 bed on an earlier frame. It does not look right, and filler plates have to be made to fit between the running boards and bed. Also the fenders need to be lowered or will appear too high.

Best plan is to find a '54 or '55 1st frame. My buddy got one this afternoon for just $75.

Then the only way to keep it's original stance and look would be to raise the bed floor up, which isn't hard. Done it many of times. But ya, if you don't like to cut and weld, then best find a new frame I suppose. There are tons around for cheap that I've seen.

Since you're basically butchering the frame anyway with the 4-link setup, and it seems you don't have any intention of using the truck like a truck, go ahead and cobble up the top of the frame rails. I'd suggest adding some sort if stiffener to keep it from bending, but since it seems you're more concerned with looks than utility, it probably won't matter what you do as long as the final assembly looks good to you.
Jerry

Thanks for all the replies! Yeah, my primary concern is to have the appearance of a stock bed, with the benefits of lowering it without bottoming out. I may actually use the bed, but it will be for light duty household hauling.

The work will be completing by a very competent local hot rod shop. So I won't mess it up!

If I choose to raise the floor, it will be no more than 1", so I don't mess with the embossed bedsides that were on the '54.

When raising the floor....Does anyone have any good ideas for fillers between the rear crossmember,.wood, and tailgate? To give it that finished looked when the tailgate is down?

So far just letting the frame protrude through the wood and making a sheet metal cover sounds like the suitable solution in this case.

Or is there something in the way of doing this, a cross member or something?
If it's purely an interference problem with the bed wood and the frame; the wood is easy to cut...

Grigg

I have an early 50's frame and modified it for my '54 truck. I trimmed about 2 plus inched off the top. I was able to keep the entire bottom and the side rail. I then boxed the bottom further down. Then boxed the top and the inside. I maintained the front frame height over the modified area. It works fine. You can see my modifications by going to my listed cars at the bottom of my reply. Look at "54toy". That will solve your problem. There are other things I have done that you may want to do as well. One is moving your rear axle back 2" so it centers better in the wheel well. That is accomplished with a simple 2" plate.

Also, you will want to remove the back support on the frame as it humps upward. Just have another made the same size but rather straight across. No big deal and no big cost. Dan

Actually, you toss the blocks that are used on the 53 and earlier models and just rest the bed on the cross sills. You will not have to block up the 54 bed. The cross sills (braces) will rest on the small rubber pads with the frame underneath. You will find that your running boards will align with the holes in the bottom of your rear fenders. Take a look at my current vehicle, a 54 and you will see what I mean.