The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Clutch replacement with T-5

I have read John Sandoval's tech tip on the T-5 installation on the Stovebolt forum.

I bought a ’53 3600 ¾ ton and had Troy Robertson install a rebuilt 235 and World Class T-5 from Tom Langdon, from an ’86 Camaro and had an S-10 shifter put on it. I used the WC T-5 to get the .63 overdrive to work with my existing 4.56 rear end in order to get 64 mph at 2200 rpm. Everything works great with one small exception. I have a rattling sound when ever I depress the clutch. I have a good custom clutch shop near where I live but they only repair the clutches but do not remove them from the vehicle.

I have two floor jacks, one motorcycle lift and 4 good jack stands and woodworking shop.

My question is in order to remove the clutch, how do you support the T-5 to move it back from the bell housing and in again to bolt it up? I can do the wrenching but am just too old to lift the T-5 by myself and insert the bolts.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

John Hill

I use a shop crane and a chain through the hole in the floor.

Jack stands on the corners (axles) Floor jacks in place on the front axle middle and the pumpkin out back. You now have 6 points of support.

Remove driveshaft.

Use motorcycle lift to slide out trans. Support trans. with a frame of wood to maintain upright position.

Continue...

I found the easiest way to remove and re-install the T5 was from the top. I have a pic of the little 2x4 frame and the boat winch I had.....a simple rope harness around the transmission (I left it on just in case).

Check out the pic on page 5 of my Webshots Public shoebox. The T5 is only 75 pounds.....you don't need a rear cross member and using the frame and sliding winch you can take the weight off the mainshaft, slide the tranny back to clear the bell housing and reverse the process to re-install. It makes pulling the box a one-man operation. The 2x4 frame just free-floats,straddling the transmission access hole and the winch mount 2x4 spans the frame from side to side. The vise-grips in lieu of the winch handle, allows me to work the winch from under the truck.

Hope this helps

This looks like a great solution. Now I need a winch.
I have a regular engine hoist or shop crain that I could poke through the open door but can't figure out how to slide it back.
This sliding jig looks simple.
John

I tried both the engine hoist and also a dedicated transmission jack before I rigged up the 2x4 frame with sliding lightweight winch. The engine hoist was just too bulky and the tranny jack was too shaky.

At 75 pounds the T5 is a lightweight compared to the sm 420 I removed with the same rig. The winch doesn't have to be anything of beauty.....a little rust adds character and if you can lock up the spool you're in business. Because the 2x4 with the winch isn't affixed to the frame, you can slide it around to clear the bell housing (you can't pull the bellhousing because of the 2 bolts behind the flywheel...just the box) and the same when the box goes back in.

As for your rattle......I'd check the length of the pilot bearing retainer shaft.....I've noticed that one of my Hybrid Camaro boxes has a shorter retainer shaft than the S10 boxes. I'd check to make sure that your long TO bearing was fully supported as it makes contact with the diaphragm on the clutch. If so you should have marks where things are making contact. Also, depending whether you are running the 153 tooth (6v) flywheel or the 168 tooth (12v) you might be having some interference between the clutch disc and the pressure plate.

Hope this helps.