The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 Running Hot

I finally replaced the temp gauge on my 56 235, with the ether bulb and gauge (new from classic parts. The gauge went all the way over to 220 just in town driving.

I came back down a little when crusing along, but stop and go made it heat right up again,

I have a 180 thermostat and new hoses. the lower hose is formed, but no wire insert.

I think it's too hot. I think I should trust the gauge since it's new.

Should I try the reverse flush radiator air blast as described in another post?

Or do I need an electric fan, too?

Or what to check next?

never trust anything new check the water temp in the top of the rad with a good kitchen thermometer first, or with a laser thermometer - next check that the thermostat is really working, dunk it in a pan of water on the stove .... then report the distance your fan is from the rad and whether the fan is fairly centered on the rad top to bottom, higher temps at lower speeds makes it sound like the pump is positioned wrong for your truck or you need a shroud

Bill

Is the fan center of the radiator ? There is a lot of discussions here on the short shaft water pump conversion.Did the truck run hot with the old temp gauge ? The water pumps on a 1955.2 to 1962 235 and 261 engines sit lower than pre 1955.1 series.

Just a thought.

Tim

You need the wire insert in the bottom hose. It's collapsing and impeding flow. Mine did the same as yours. Made my own wire insert from 14 gauge galvinized wire wrapped around a 1.5 inch pipe. Took a half hour to install.

So, I make a wrapped wire, then insert it inside the lower hose? Sounds easy. Does 14 gauge galvanized wire come from HD or Ace, etc?

Yup make your own. I put my pipe dowel in my vise to bend the wire around it. Any hardware store or parts emporium should have it. Mine came in a 50 foot length. Always good to have extra wire. LOL!!!

I checked it again this morning after it got up to temp, and I don't notice any collapsing of the lower hose, even if I rev it up.

The fan is about 2" away from the radiator and seems to be in the center, although it is low. This looks like a non-standard replacement. but it looks beefy enough.

Replace fan? or spacers?

Unless the hose is really bad you won't see it. It occurs when you are tooling down the highway and a suction condition is created by the operation of the engine under demand loads.

The original fan setup would have been about 3/8" to 1/2" away from the rad. You are probably pulling air from around the fan, not through the rad. If it overheats at idle you could try this experiment: Put a large powerful house fan in front of the grill and see if it makes a difference. If it does, there is not enough air being pulled through the rad.

that 2" is your problem, the fan must be within 1/2 - 3/4" and blade ends should not be close to the bottom [hottest water in at the top, needs best air flow] - otherwise you need a different pump configuration or a shroud

Bill

Can I make some spacers to move the fan blade closer to the rad? it still will be sort of low though, but that might help.

yes, you should be able to find different length ones [as here on my 58] at your FLAPS

Bill

Thanks for the pic, I'll get a spacer, and I will look for a shroud too

Bill.
How much larger is the diameter of your fan shroud compared to the diameter of the fan? Thanks,
John

barely John, maybe about 1/2" to 1" clearance, the shroud is from a 60's car but the "tube" is the same as would originally have been used if my truck had come with the 283 ... note that the correct positioning of the fan is right at the opening not inside or outside

Bill

Thank you for the info Bill. I am building a shroud for my '50 (55 235)
I went 1/2 inch bigger with the shroud and
was worried that was too much clearance, feeling better about it now.
Thanks again for the reply. John