The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Painting frame

I have removed about fifty years worth of added steel from my 54, 6400's frame and getting ready to prep. for paint. Once the frame is clean I was thinking of using rustoleum applied with a brush (to keep things economical) as my truck will be a working farm/logging truck. Has anyone used this process? and how has it performed?

I have but at the time i never heard of chassis saver or por-15. That is what i will use next time but the rustoleum has held up pretty good.

I used rustolem on my wheels and brake drums. brush painted came out fairly well dried evenly with little sign of brush strokes. When I later powerwashed some of the black paint came off exposing primer. Not sure if I used too much pressure, didn't scuff primer enough or should have used a hardner in the paint. youi may want to post this question in the body and paint forum.

I did it on one of mine. I used XO Rust, which is the Tru-Value Hardware equivalent of Rustoleum. It seems to be holding up well.

POR-15 is the very best product out there. Put it on once and forget it. Incidently POR stands for Paint Over Rust. DON"T get it on you...will not wash off with anything.

In the 70's I painted a frame with rustoleum red primer and topped it with their enamel,two coats of each over a frame I had removed rust with a wire brush.
It's still there and doing well,but my opinion coverage is the main key to longevity. High points and sharp edges are hard to cover but if your good with a brush you can achieve the result you're after.
The thing that's different now with rusto paints is the dry time,making it harder to keep a wet edge. Back in the 70's dry time was at least a day, but now it's dry to touch in a few hours.
I tried to paint an I beam in the sun and that didn't work well cause the paint dried so fast it forced me to paint as fast as I could to keep a wet edge.
I think your choice is good and you'll be able to easily touch up any stone chips that take paint off or break it open.

Dan

Does the POR-15 come in black or just gray?
Do you paint over the POR-15?

Jon

I used Zero-Rust on my frame. Takes all but the hit of a missle to remove it. Looks great!

POR-15 comes in several colors that are shown in a drop-down box on this page.

How much do you need to order to cover the frame? How many coats?

It took less than a 1/2 gallon to do my frame axles and yes you can apply another paint over that. Por-15 does not stand up to the sun, but your frame wont be seeing much sun, with a body on it.

I'm using Por 15 now on my 41 1.5 ton chassis, I've also used it on the fuel tank, inside of riser etc. The best part is I painted my leaf springs with it, Por 15 is so flexable, it holds up to flexing springs. I called the mfg. about it and they say it is good up to 450 degrees. I had a bit of a paint spill (in the driveway) that I tried to cleanup before my wife saw it. I got por15 all over my hands, its been 10 days and its still there. WEAR GLOVES!!!

HotRod
Yes I was curious about using the Por on leaf springs. Got my springs from St Louis Springs and was unhappy with them because there is rust starting to come out between the leafs. Will use Por on them. My truck has not even been on the road yet!
Jon

unklrod, the only way to keep the rust from coming through the springs is to take them apart and clean them. This is just my opinion! I took mine apart and cleaned them then primed and painted them. I might add I also used the polyliner in between them to help them flex easier as they had a fair amount of wear on them.
I am also a big fan of the POR15. Tough stuff and a quart will put two coats on most size chassis. Pour out small amounts at a time to keep it from starting to set up on you and keep it covered well. Someone here suggested drilling a hole in the top of the can and after pouring some out to put some tape over the hole. Less mess and helps keep if from drying out.

The stuff will coat your lungs to so be sure you have good ventilation, old clothes and gloves!

Achip,
Yes, I will have to tear those springs down someday soon and get er done

I used por15 grey then topcoated with por15 hardnose paint on my entire frame including the leaf springs(disassembled them first) and it turned out great!! Very tough stuff and you do not want it on your driveway cause it will be there forever ha..Before I used the por15 i painted some spare sheet metal to test its durability, the only way I scratched through to metal was with my wire brush on an angle grinder. Glancing blows with the wire brush didnt do a thing, other than a few scuffs.
Josh
Painted Frame Pic 1
Painted Frame Pic 2
Painted Frame Pic 3

Josh,
I hear there is no point in putting POR15 between the springs. It will just wear away over time...Any truth to this??

UnkRod
It will take a long time to wear away the POR15.If you dont paint the area between the springs rust will show on the painted areas.

Most of the wear will be toward the tips so putting something on them will certainly reduce the amount of rust dust when/if it ever did start. Since I had mine apart I spent a few dollars for the polyliner that goes betweeen them. I do not know if it will really help them work/slide any better but I hear it does help. Since my springs were a little rough, and worn toward the tips I figured I couldn't go wrong with the liner.

A Few years ago I Painted my Willy's Jeep Frame with Van Sickle Paint from Orscheins. It's tough stuff and they sell matching hardener to go with it. They have two versions of their paint. Have also used it on a boat trailer with a brush without hardener. If you go with the Rustoleum, use the "Professional" version in the gray labeled gallon cans and it can be brushed or sprayed. You can email the company any they will let you know what kind of hardener to use. I believe its oil based similar to PPG ALK-200, but I could be wrong. I brush painted my pop-up camper frame with it and it worked out well. I have not used POR-15 but I have heard good things. I haven't seen anything painted with Por-15 over a few years ago so I don't know about real durability. Good Luck

UnklRod, Im not sure Im still in the process of putting the ole gal back together but I took them apart to put the polyliner in between and I painted them while they were out and in pieces.. Josh

You guys are going to have to forgive me for looking at this in a very logical way.
First, we are looking to find the most durable paint, but here's what I also think when it comes to durability.

Unless your going to drive it every day, run it down gravel roads, and drive it in the winter with salted roads, how durable does it have to get.

The factory painted my frame in 1952 and most of it is still there and they only painted it to provide coverage, basically.

I think the important part is good coverage, multiple coats, with what ever you choose.
I did a frame in the 70's and that cheap stuff is still there, holding up fine. Two primer and two top coats.

I've used POR-15 and Chassis Saver and think they are also very good, although it hasn't been 35 years down road yet.

The only down side to the high dollar stuff I know of is the inability to keep the paint. It always wants to harden up in the can once it is opened, which is a little depressing because the paints so costly, and it's a little more toxic to work with.

My last thought-- Unless your 20 years old and want to preserve your truck till your 80, or you want your great grandkids to be able to drive it someday, how durable does it HAVE to be ?

Dan

glasman brings up a good point about keeping POR15. It can be done but you nee d too get your wife on board with it first because it means keeping it in the refrigerator. Oh, and put some plastic food wrap over the can so you can get the lid off. Doesn't smell any worse than last weeks lettuce.

Or... think of it in another way. This is a very good reason why you really need a refrigerator out in your shop.

Im 24 and I dont want to be going through that terrible process of stripping and painting the frame for a long long time so Im hoping it will hold up for me..Thanks 53MONEYPIT, I now have a valid reason to have a kegerator in my shop..haha

Dave,
Great reason to have a fridge in the shop...may I add a keg in there as well..

A fridge can be the most dangerous tool in the garage!

I've had a can of POR-15 on the shelf not refrigerated for years and it's still good. The trick is to only open the can with a ice pick. Pour out what you want to use and put a sheet metal screw in the hole, then tip the can to get the screw wet on the inside to seal it up. Next time you need it just back the screw out or punch a new hole.

Oh, forgot to say I roll the can across the shop floor to stir it up, do not shake.

Works for me...

Mike B

Absolutely UnklRod. What is the favored brew out your way? Mines Sam Adams.
If I'm ever in your neighborhood I'll stop to check out the kegerator, HA.

Mike....you spoilsport...your method isn't near as much fun as having a friggie next to the tool box.

Don't worry Dave, I have a fridge in the shop I just don't keep the POR-15 in it

Mike B

We have Anchor Steam and Speak Easy..as well as a whole mess of other little beers..Prefer Fat Tire...But have to keep Bud in the fridge as my brother is the GM of Anheuser Busch.

Anheuser Busch makes other beers that are at minimum "palatable".

Another American company sold off to a foreign land...we do it to ourselves

Did I really read somebody ask how durable does it have to be??? I'm sorry, but we all know that they don't make these trucks anymore right! If you have one restore it, SAVE THE HISTORY, its all we have of them, if we don't our grandkids will be stuck playing with Hondas!

My soldier/Grandson, 21 drives a 96 ElDorado. No Honda's for this kid. He knows Grampa would disown him. (actually I think he has his eye on the safe full of old Winchesters I have)