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| | | Forums66 Topics128,181 Posts1,057,152 Members48,464 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 | Hi all, I'm new to the forum and thought that this is the most appropriate spot for this question. A few years back, my old man restored a '50 Chevy 3100 and I think I want to do the same. Granted, I just turned 30, so this truck would be about twice as old as me, but I just can't escape how sexy these trucks were back in the day... I have to have one, so I'm going to teach myself all about them by rebuilding one. What I don't know is what a fair price would be for a working candidate truck to restore, so I'm looking for input from this community. FYI, I don't want to restore a truck to show it, I want a daily driver I can get out there on the road and take to work in the morning, maybe haul a few loads of firewood in the fall, etc.
So let's say you're in the market for a new project and you find an unrestored 1950 5-window Chevy 3100 1/2-ton. The body is in good condition overall, some rust in the normal spots but nothing too rotten, parts are mostly original and are all working. She still has the original 216 and it's running well enough to drive around town. What price do you think would be fair for such a vehicle? I know that there is always more to know about the condition of a vehicle, but just throw out a number anyways. Are there any specific questions you would ask the previous owner? Specific things to check on the vehicle? Any guidance you can provide to get me on the path of finding the right truck to start out with -- and what to pay for her -- would be super helpful. Thanks in advance! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 119 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 119 | It is a wide range. $2500 to $6000. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 164 | for a "running and driving" unrestored truck $1000-$3500 also make sure it has a title. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 | Around here, I'm in San Jose, I see them around $3000 -$5000. That's a running truck which hasn't gotten hacked to death or attacked with the rust monster. I'd recommend learning what mods are good ones, the ones you might do, like master cylinder upgrade, 235 engine swap etc. Shop around so you have some idea of the potential costs, (gauge replacements, upholstery, tires) That way you have some info on your side when shopping. The other thing to consider; get a 3/4 or a 1 ton. From my experience they can come cheaper as they aren't the rodder's choice! I picked up a great 1 ton for less than half of what it would have sold for if it was a 1/2 ton.
Jeremy | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 | Hey lostmy47, Yeah, I'm trying to pick up as much info as I can about the best mods to make if I want to go that route. Optimally I'll stay as original as possible, but it sounds like swapping out the 216 for a 235 is a great modification to make if possible, as is perhaps a new tranny geared so as to allow for occasional highway speeds. I'm definitely looking at 3/4 tons as well. If you see or hear about anything in our neck of the woods -- Bay Area or even the central valley -- please do shoot me a note to let me know. Thanks again for the input, gents. Best, Nick | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 119 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 119 | New tranny means new driveshaft and rearend too. These trucks have closed drvelines. Must be converted to open driveline to start changing much around. Open came late '55, closed before that. Thankfully mine is a '54 so the rear end has a 3.90 in it. Earlier ones had 4.11 or worse (for higher speed cruising that is). Mine does good at 50 mph or so. If you plan on having a need to go faster than that, you will have to consider all this and better brakes as well. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,843 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,843 | Nick, I'm keeping an eye out for ya.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 | Cheers, Craig - greatly appreciated. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,378 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,378 | for a "running and driving" unrestored truck $1000-$3500 also make sure it has a title. AND make sure the number on the title is also on the truck you buy. Most states used the engine number as the VIN back then and a lot of old vehicles don't have the original engine any more. If the owner didn't re-title after swapping the engine you'll have a ton of hoops to jump through to get it titled after buying it.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 | I paid $3,000.00 for my 1954 GMC pickup. I hauled it home in pieces, but complete. I took a year to think about it and another year to put it together. Then $3,000.00 body work and paint along with another $3,000.00 of misc. stuff and it was running. I guess that's pretty much the going rate for a "restored" truck. Mine runs good, not a great daily driver but it has been in constant use for the past 3 months while my regular daily driver (1992 GMC) has been "laid up" with engine problems. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,972 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,972 | Nick, Welcome to the Stovebolt Page! Good luck with your search. As others have replied the range is wide and it depends a lot on location. I don't know anything about your area but I suspect there are still a bunch of original trucks to be had. And likely with less rust than here in the midwest. Less rust is better! I suggest you search everywhere: local newspapers and trader/ad sheets, craigslist, contacts in local car clubs, even car dealers. And don't be afraid to peek over a few fences. I agree with the others; get a truck with a clear title.
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 | Man do I feel better. I paid $900.00 for my '53 1/2 ton GMC with three extra engines and a whole truck load of extra parts. I drove it home and I've been driveing it ever since. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | These trucks have closed drvelines. Must be converted to open driveline to start changing much around. Open came late '55, closed before that. Actually the change-over to open drivelines happened with the '55 1st models, which would have hit the dealers in late '54. The serial number will be something like H55 instead of H54 for a 1/2-ton.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 | This all sounds like awesome advice; thank you all.
Last edited by nrdesieyes; 09/13/2010 4:27 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 | This all sounds like awesome advice; thank you all. These trucks have closed drvelines. Must be converted to open driveline to start changing much around. Open came late '55, closed before that. Actually the change-over to open drivelines happened with the '55 1st models, which would have hit the dealers in late '54. The serial number will be something like H55 instead of H54 for a 1/2-ton. Wow. Just from the prices I've already seen around these parts, it makes me wish I was in Iowa too! So far, MUCH more expensive here in CA. Enjoy your truck!! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 | hmmm my 50 has an open driveline.... and 5.14 in the rear end...
Don't fret there are deals here too. It just takes patience. And cash. Set the money, you want to spend, aside. When you find a truck find someone to look it over with you if you aren't sure that you have all the info you'd like to have. Or look and post questions here. These folks are handy to have around!
I'll keep an eye out for one for ya, I seem to trip over them from time to time. Jeremy | | |
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