The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 12 volt and 6 volt starting

Hi --- first off, thanks for this forum. I just bought a '51 AD 3/4 --- complete but hasn't run in years. I worked on cars a little in high school and grew up in my Dad's machine shop, and have been reading the rebuilding manuals, but I'm a novice. Before I completely rebuild carb I wanted to see if she'll start, so couple of questions. I'm replacing coil, points, plugs, oil, and fixing some wiring. I removed carb --- is it advisable to soak the carb in mineral spirits at this stage, just for a general cleaning? It's the Rochester B. Where the throttle post meets the linkage piece, it seems a little loose (not spinning, just wiggly). Seems to me that the original weld may have worn --- can that be re-welded? I was told I should put thin oil in and just crank and crank it with a 12 volt battery to "limber up the engine" then run gas off a can and start it with the 6 volt. Is this 12 volt thing advisable? Also, I need to do some rewiring --- is there a standard guage I can use for the ignition system? Thanks,

Short answer...you can start it off 12 volts for a little while, but I wouldn't do it for a long time.

The starter should be fine, but your lights and gauges could fry. If I understand, and you're just trying to "loosen it up" with 12 volts, I'd recommend unhooking the electrical system...except for the starter.

Colorado51,

Welcome to the Stovebolt. I agree with CanyonAg77, if you are just going to spin and loosen, jump right to the starter with your 12 volts and bypass regulators, generators etc.

I think your loose linkage piece is staked to the throttle shaft. If you are careful, it could be brazed or silver soldered tight.

Giving the carburetor a bath in paint thinner won't do any harm, but will probably be for esthetics only.

Before you do your 'spin thing' shoot some quality oil into each plug hole, and even down the intake manifold.

Great idea on bypassing the factory fuel tank for the initial blast off.

Almost all the wires on your rig will be in the 14/16 gauge size. This would be adequate for any ignition load. If you scout around, you will see larger wires that carry charging loads leading from things like the generator, and going from regulator to ammeter. These could be as large as 10 gauge because they carry the system load.

Be sure to keep a fire extinguisher near by for the maiden voyage...no backfire barbecues!

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Stuart

To add my 2 cents, remove the spark plugs to make the load on the starter less and don't run the 6V starter on 12 volts for too long at a time. If it were me, I'd do 10-15 seconds then let it cool a bit.

Welcome to the Bolt, John.

I don't have specific answers to your questions but found a couple of resources that you may decide to refer to from time to time.

An online 48'-51' chevy truck manual (has the wiring diagram with wire sizes and wire colors)

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1948_51truckshop/index.htm

A service bulletin from 51' on the Rochester B.

http://chevy.tocmp.com/Rochester/index.htm

Both of these are from the Old Online Chevy Manual site. Lots of wonderful info there.

Epic #1 got a 12V alternator and system, but I left the 6V starter in there until it broke, which it never did in about 5 years of daily driving.

My good friend had a starter and generator rebuilding business for about 10 years, he said absolutely no problem to use 12 volts on a 6 volt starter, in fact when you buy a "Heavy duty" starter from the factory all they do is put a 6 volt armature in with 12 volt field coils - works like a charm.

You guys are great! --- thanks for the words of wisdom. It snowed last night in Colorado, so I'll wait for the warm up tomorrow, then let's see what happens...

Colorado51,

Remember that all these "affirmatives" on using the 6 volt starter on 12 volts are for the starter only.

Some of the other components are 6 volt only, and will go on permanent vacation if you stick your 12 volt battery in a go for a ride!

Stuart

Stuart,
Yes, I plan to disconnect other systems from the starter and jump the 12 to the starter only to limber up the engine. After I get the carb cleaned and new gaskets and oil changed I'll use a 6 v. One thing seems odd --- I have the foot starter pedal as well as a push button starter on the dash. This doesn't seem right according to the operator's manual --- it's either / or, right? Looks like some hot wire rigging was done to circumvent the ignition switch, for which I have no key. That'll get rewired down the road...

John,

The notorious 'previous owners' do strange things sometimes. The mystery switch would certainly merit further investigation though.

If it is a momentary switch, it couldn't replace the key switch. You have looked at the starter and it doesn't have a solenoid..right.

This rig has a standard transmission in it I assume. The Hydramatic rigs used a solenoid actuated starter with the pushbutton on the left of the steering wheel, mid dash. They wouldn't have a stomper though.

Stuart

Stuart,
Mystery switch and key problem solved. The push button seems to have been installed to operate the horn. And get this --- the key from my '63 chevy 3/4 ton fit the '51 ignition switch!

John,

Good work! You have a horn and a key, what else could a person ask for.

Stuart