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| | | Forums66 Topics128,087 Posts1,055,974 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 | So now that I have put a few miles on it I thought I would post. I fixed the carb and Its working fairly well. I rebuilt the brake master and bled the hydrovac. all of a sudden the brakes only need to be pumped once! The master needs to be replaced, as it had corrosion that I could not hone out. unless I sleeve it. NAPA wants $180 for the master cylinder, are there better options? I was planning on replacing the front and rear axles and will do the brake upgrade then, I really want a tandem brake system... this single system seems sketchy at best.. I have redone the entire interior. I didn't intend to, it just worked out that way. All the window seals have been replaced, the headliner (with insulation above) New seat upholstery, the dash is painted and the heater rebuilt except for the heater valve. Doesn't someone rebuild these? I've done a few wiring repairs, running new wire where needed. Somehow I am still stunned at what some people will do with wiring.... I just picked up a 261 and am looking inside it this coming week. Though I don't think I'll put it in until I change the rear-end. On that topic... one question I am puzzled y. I have seen some folks here say that you can swap the center section from the rear axle with a late 60's or 70's axle. is this true or not. If it is it seems like that would be the easy way to go. but if it were that easy, my rain says more people would e talking about it. Right?
Jeremy | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | $180 seems a bit steep for that m/c. You could have it sleeved for much less than that. Might be a good time for a dual reservoir upgrade...I'm doing that on my 3800 right now.
'68-'72 3/4 ton automatic trucks generally have 4.10 gears and the center section will swap into your housing. Some spend a few years looking for the 4.10 gears. Depends on where you look and how lucky you are. I have had a few...last one I got I traded a rock crawler guy straight up for my 5.14 gear set. I also found one in a '70 dually truck with a V8 and 4 speed.
Nice score on the 261...
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 | Steve- I want your shop!!! So much room! wow! Is there a number on the outside of the diff housing that denotes a 4.10 gear set? I think I could find one around here. If I knew what to look for. The dual M/C you are doing is that the one in you photos? That looks clean. What is the m/c from? do you have drawings of the new mount?
The 261 was a score alright. I was the first one to call. I was watching Craigslist for months! It seems like its in good shape. turns free and all. The fasteners are not seized, so far, and the oil in it is clean. I think I will pull the head and pan and see what the cylinders/crank look like. The water jacket is full of rust and scale, I need to figure out a good way to get it cleaned out properly. I have a set of Fenton headers and an offenhauser dual intake for it already. I was going to put them on my 47(58 235) when it got stolen, and I've had them on the shelf since.
Thanks
Jeremy | | |
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