The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Flywheel bolts and Locks

Hi gang, glad to be back online after a long hard summer off. And glad to be back working on the truck some.
Now all I have to do is remember where I put all those nuts and bolts I pulled off last winter!!!!

Would like to replace the six 7/16-20 x 1" flywheel bolts on the 216 with new ones but I've been looking for a good while without success. And would like to replace the locks also.
Any ideas??????
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

It's good to see you posting again, Denny.

Chevs of the 40s sell these (31/32 long). Most likely the "lock washers" are not the same as the original locks (and, Loctite is in order).

Same from Classic Parts?

I suspect that the locks also have a sealing function. Are the holes blind?

I have wondered where you got to!

Fred

Not sure about the tab locks, but Dorman used to sell flywheel bolts for a lot of different engines. I think Pioneer engine parts has taken over the Dorman line of specialty products. As a last resort, get some 7/16-20 grade 8 bolts, and cut the heads down to about half thickness in a lathe to prevent clutch hub interference. The lock plates can be duplicated by tracing their shape on a piece of 1/16" mild steel sheet metal, and doing some drilling, sawing, and filing. Time-consuming, but it works!
Jerry

Just got back a few minutes ago, thanks for the response this afternoon. Kind of what I expected, that is, "no longer available." Locktite Maybe ok for the a flexplate or torque converter Tim, but I taint change any over the summer, I might have even gotten worse, I gotta have the original bolts and locks. They can be hard enough to get out with out Locktite. I can remember drawers full of them when I was a parts man back a half century ago, but people were using their left foot to drive with back them. I went to the local Chevy dealer yesterday and all I got was a blank stare from the "Parts Consultant" when I asked if he stocked flywheel bolts and locks.
The head on the stock grade 8 bolts is 5/8" vs 11/16" and the threads are more precise than the ACE hardware bolts also the neck is not correct.
Nothing to seal Fred.
Checked with a couple of Parts stores last week that had Dorman assortments and none had flywheel bolts. I already drew up the locks in my cad Jerry, and I picked up some material this morning to make the forming dies for the 1/8" center raised section in between the holes. Stock locks were 21ga. (.033") by the way, and my nephew is bringing me some material next week.
Well I gotta go back to work, I'm making a forming die to make the 2 ½” x 8” front motor mount shield the way it should be made. I didn't like the square cornered box that the vendors are selling as a replacement.

Thanks again guys, was just hoping maybe someone knew where there might be some reproduction parts already being made.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I agree with you, Denny. I use the original locks.

Denny, Also don't reassemble the engine without a dowel in the flange/flywheel.Bolts unless the tight fitting "body bound" type are not intended to drive the flywheel.Many times a crank grinder removes the dowel and it doesn't get reinstalled.Their need is not as critical with an auto trans vehicle but with straight shift a proper fitting dowel is a must.

Oh yeah Bob, I'll make sure the dowel's in place.
tks
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Unless you can find an old assortment, I think I would trust the originals more than modern made in China ones. Even Dorman stuff is made in China these days.

The bolt holes and the dowel holes go all the way through the flange, and if one is missing there will be a massive oil leak into the bellhousing/clutch area. The PO of my 59 model 3800 left one flywheel bolt out when he rebuilt the engine, and it ruined the clutch in less than 200 miles after I bought the truck.
Jerry

The bolts are the same as Chevy small block V-8 stick flywheel.20 bucks buys race quality stuff from your local speedshop or places like Summit or Jegs online.The SBC bolt may or may not come with serrated lock washers.Do not rely on suspect bolts for a flywheel.
You can throw away the stock sheetmetal locks if you want.Red Loctite works better,just make sure you clean the threaded holes in the crank carefully.It also seals the threaded hole so engine oil won't seep past the bolts.

So I’m prepping everything in anticipation of getting my short block back this month. I bought on of those front motor mount shields that wear thru on all the 216’s and was disappointed in the way it was made. Soooooo, I decided to make my own. I know, I know, who’s gonna see it right? I’ve heard that from more than one source but after all, this restoration is for ME and I’ll see it!
A few pixs of the front motor mount shield as it was supposed to be from the factory:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/under_hood&page=16

Got some new bolts comming from Chevy Duty but they didn't have the locks either. And again, who’s gonna know if I used the proper flywheel locking method or not? ME, that’s who’s gonna know. Man, now I can sleep at night knowing all is right.
And a few pics of the proper flywheel bolt locks. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/under_hood&page=17


Being a kind of particular guy about some things, I wanted to use my original clutch. The pressure plate was not heat checked or scored and the fingers didn’t show any wear either so all I needed to do was verify that the pressure was correct and that it released smoothly. That checked out just fine, so moving to the original clutch disc it also looked like new so I wanted it relined. They bead blast the core, check for cracks, coat with a rust preventative and relined it with a VelveTouch facing. Back a half century ago, when I was a young parts man and speed nut, a VelveTouch clutch was the hot set up and all the racers around our area used them. Not that I’m gonna go racing or even haul anything heavier than my “big old wife” bit I can rest easy knowing that I got the best clutch holding the driveline together. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/128167927

Well, that’s what I’ve been up to for the last few weeks while waiting for the short block to be rebuilt. Having the engine bored for new alum pistons, rods reworked for inserts, touching up the crank, new bearings, and new timing gear. Hoping she will give me another 60,000 miles of good service. At my 3,000 miles a year average, that should hold me for the next 20 years or till they take my driving privileges away.
Look forward to meeting some of you at KC this week.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Hey Jerry, where's all that earl comming from on your engine????? You know those rope seals are full proof and leak free. Anyway, hoping mine rear main won't be leaking for a little while after the rebuild.

But just in case I suppose "a little dab will do ya" on the flywheel bolts. I normally use a little Permatex #2 on the threads that I think may allow fluid leakage, such as those on the steering box, transmission, rear end or engine pans. I do use a small drop of Locktite 222MS (Low Strength)on the jet passage plugs of the Carter W-1 carbs because the copper cone washers often don't seal well.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

The old 59 3800 bit the dust and got parted out some time ago- - - - -the cab was so rusty the door hinges failed! I did trade the rolling chassis for a 261 engine, though! That's the one the PO was just finishing up on an out-of frame engine rebuild when I bought it, and the clutch barely made the 50-mile trip home because of the missing flywheel bolt. About halfway home on that trip, I discovered that the cab was infested with thousands of fleas! I think the guy's dogs had used it for a home! The truck served me well for several years after that, hauling materials for the remodeling job on the Grade B dairy barn that became our house.
Jerry

Denny,look on ebay, I just got 6 bolts and lock (fly wheel NOS)from mikes_
chevey and 6 clutch bolt (NOS)