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| | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 49 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 49 | I have been getting different information on this....
I just put a brand new wiring harness in my truck from bumper to bumper. It cost $700 from American Autowire. I want to hook up my battery meter but the instructions say not to. That it would start a fire. I have kept my classic gauges (1950 Chevy 3100). Is there a way I can hook up my gauge to track my battery charge. I'm complete converted to 12 volt. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | That should read "Could start a fire if...". On your original harness a wire ran from the hot post on the starter to the ammeter. From there another wire ran to the voltage regulator. Both had to pass through the firewall.
When Detroit went to volt meters they claimed it was safer because now you don't have the entire load of the electric system passing through the firewall twice. Less chance of fires. I think they did it because it was cheaper and pressed the safety angle to fool us into thinking they are thinking about our safety.
Your aftermarket harness probably has the wire you need to tap into out of the cab. It can be done, just be sure you insulate the holes where you bring it in, or it could start a fire. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 49 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 49 | Cool, so what would the wiring be now?
I think i removed the voltage regulator.... | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | It has to be in-line with the wire from the alternator output. (the 8 ga wire) The wires need to be big enough to carry that load. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 238 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 238 | The ammeter goes in line in the feed cable to the battery as Cletis says. The load -the wire that connects to your fusebox, lights etc. needs to be connected to the generator/alternator side of the ammeter too. Then the ammeter will show the proper discharge when you have lights etc. turned on without the motor running and will also register the correct nett. charge when the motor is running.
You say you've removed the voltage regulator. keep in mind that if you've fitted an alternator, the needle on an AD truck ammeter is hard over at about 40 amps charge or discharge. If you start your truck with a low battery and a 63 amp or bigger alternator, the needle will peg on the charge side because for a short while the alternator will send its maximum charge to the battery. You can fit some power resistors in the ammeter circuit to fix this problem -there was a thread on here about this a few months ago.
Stuart.
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