The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Flathead Screws - Front Drums to Hubs

I just recently got a set of used front drums for my 1953 3/4 Chevy that are in much better shape than mine. My drums are attached to the hubs with two flathead screws. I've used multiple applications of PB Blaster, tap, tap, tap, more Blaster, more tapping (more like banging now) and I can't get any of the four screws loose.

Got two quick questions. These screws aren't reverse threaded, are they (I'd hate to think I've been tightening them all this time)? If I ultimately have to drill them out, are the screws readily available?

Thanks

I think this would be the perfect aplication for an Impact screw drive.

Jeff, I had the same problem as you. I did the same things you did but ended up heating up the drum around the screw with a propane torch to finally get them to budge. It still took a BFH and a lot of elbow grease.

Jeff,
I had a similar problem with the large screws that hold the front plate to the engine, underneath the timing gear. After advice, I used a large dull slot screwdriver and tapped it with a hammer on the outside half of the slot. It really worked. I had tried various arrangments with high torque screwdivers etc. and nothing else worked. My screw heads had been staked at the factory.

Thanks folks, all good suggestions to try. So does anyone know, if I do bugger the screws completely would they be a relatively easy item to find in a good hardware store or would I be up a creek?

They're not easy to find an exact replacement. You can get that screw in a socket head cap screw, though. Best way to get them out is with a proper size bit (one that fills the slot) and use an impact hammer.

Have you tried tightening them first???
(that was the last direction they moved)
The hand held impact driver (the type hit with a hammer) works pretty well if you have the large bit.

I ground by oversived screwdriver down so it would fit perfectly in the screw slot. Both in width and length. Came out fairly easy afterwards. Using a undersized the driver will not work.

Jeff, the wheel studs are through the brake drum, right. I'd say you could do with out screws if you have to. Keep soaking it and let it set if it don't want to come. Panther [censored] keeps working, sometimes it takes a while. A few light taps now and then help move the penerating oil move deeper. Drilling may not be an option. They have been heated and cooled so may times they may be harder than chinese arithmetic already. Might be able to use a die grinder to remove the screw heads. Would still have the rest of the screw to deal with tho. Or are you just after the drums?

I would use heat only as a last resort, but then the gas axe is always the last thing I use. Good luck. Mike

I have some good used screws if you need some.

An other helper is letting some mouse milk work its way in, then using an impact driver or an oversized screw stick with a bit of valve grinding compound on the tip. It works on aircraft fuel tanks, it should work on the stovebolts.

BIG LIFTER

Yeah but the hard part must be milking the mouse?

It's easyer to milk a mouse than it is to milk a moose.

That's a fact.

BIG LIFTER

Thanks again guys. This past weekend was just TOO nice (blue skies, temps in the high 70s, leaves turning, etc.) to work in the garage. I'll try several of the things suggested and let you know how they go.

"mouse milk" :confused: :confused: :confused: