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| | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 90 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 90 | Hi Folks,
I've never had any problems with any rear axle in my whole life. Sure I've replaced rear wheel bearing but more for the sake of it.
On my burb I do have a whine but I'm no sure it's comming from the diff or the wheel bearing. On tapered wheel bearings it's easy just go on a curvy road and it becomes obvious what it is.
During my rather short test drive all I could hear is a while (rather loud) from the rear.. So my question is there any good tips how to go about diagnose it - especially helpful if you do not need to drive it since the car is apart.
Burbly Dyna | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | it'll be a pinion bearing problem - maybe worn gears because of - best plan is to get a shop manual and study it
Bill | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,747 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,747 | Bearing problems are difficult to diagnose without a test drive until they're literally falling apart. On the test drive, throttle position will usually make a difference in pinion bearing noise. Most pinion bearings (the ones behind the driveshaft) will make more noise with power applied than they do when coasting, and the noise will really diminish at a "float" where the engine is neither pulling or coasting. The carrier bearings are the ones that support the differential assembly and the ring gear, the big bearings at the sides of the housing when the cover plate is removed. Failing carrier bearings will have a pretty constant hum regardless of load, and the noise will increase with speed- - - -faster road speed, more noise. It's hard to separate carrier bearing noise from axle bearing noise - - - -they turn at the same speed. Then there's gear whine- - - -a whole different can of worms! An experienced diagnostician can tell the difference, but it's almost impossible to describe slight nuances of noise with a computer keyboard. Test drive about a thousand cars and repair the problems you find, and it gets a little easier!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 90 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 90 | Bearing problems are difficult to diagnose without a test drive until they're literally falling apart. On the test drive, throttle position will usually make a difference in pinion bearing noise. Most pinion bearings (the ones behind the driveshaft) will make more noise with power applied than they do when coasting, and the noise will really diminish at a "float" where the engine is neither pulling or coasting. The carrier bearings are the ones that support the differential assembly and the ring gear, the big bearings at the sides of the housing when the cover plate is removed. Failing carrier bearings will have a pretty constant hum regardless of load, and the noise will increase with speed- - - -faster road speed, more noise. It's hard to separate carrier bearing noise from axle bearing noise - - - -they turn at the same speed. Then there's gear whine- - - -a whole different can of worms! An experienced diagnostician can tell the difference, but it's almost impossible to describe slight nuances of noise with a computer keyboard. Test drive about a thousand cars and repair the problems you find, and it gets a little easier!
Jerry Thanks just what I was looking for.. i.e. when a specific sound will increase or decrease.. Not reached 1000 yet ;), it's still below 100 .. still never got a car with a rear axle problem hence why I'm asking.. Super thanks for the description.. Burbly Dyna | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 90 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 90 | The main thing why I ask is that looked at various parts for repairing the axle and unless it's just simple its not cheap.. I'm tinkering with fitting the Burb with something a bit more modern if it's so that I need to do extensive repairs...
Burbly Dyna | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | best start is to look at the gears, aside from chip damaged teeth, obvious wear patterns might call for a total change, won't be cheap freight on a new gear set - the usual first problem is pinion bearing/seal, which is fixable, but if it's been driven long with pinion problems, gear wear is likely
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 2 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 2 | Looking for info. on the adjustment of 2 sp rear on a 54 6400.
the meck. enters on side of rear.
John | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 90 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 90 | best start is to look at the gears, aside from chip damaged teeth, obvious wear patterns might call for a total change, won't be cheap freight on a new gear set - the usual first problem is pinion bearing/seal, which is fixable, but if it's been driven long with pinion problems, gear wear is likely
Bill Yep it's about what I will do. Although lot leans towards using Jag front and rear axles. They are cheap to restore (as in brakes and bushings) here in the UK. You get power steering, power brakes so no kit for that. Likewise both front and rear disk disk brakes so no kit for that. And as a little extra perk road holding like a sports car  .. Burbly Dyna
Last edited by dyn_ares; 08/09/2010 7:21 AM.
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