The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Can't find packing seal, is there an alternative?

Hey Bolters,

The pinion oil seal was leaking on my '55 first series 1 ton, so I'm in the process of replacing it. I found the proper oil seal, but the manual calls for packing to be placed inside before the seal is pressed in. I've called everywhere in town and no one carries rope seal anymore, except napa and they want $40 for three feet of it. I would prefer to avoid that since I only need about six inches. Any advice?

Thanks Bolters.

- Daniel

I just checked at McMaster Carr [My favorite hardware store] and it's no cheaper there.

Try a trans shop or a rear end shop that rebuilds them they may have a pc. You can buy .



Pete

I may be wrong here but I don't think that you use that with a modern seal.

Poly seals only need to fit the ID & OD and can float in the space for length. Any seal company will know what you need. Rope packing is just plain no good. Never had any success with it.

I'm thinking it was a felt seal in there. I believe it is listed right next to the other seal in the catalog. I havn't got my cats. at home but I can look it up tomorrow when I get to the shop.

53moneypit Is right. Repacking is old old old, school. just polish the journal where the seal rides and lube with wheel bearing grease. It should be fine.

Thanks for the help guys. I talked to a local Jeep shop that specializes in older Jeeps and he found that the 55 first series does not need a rope or felt seal in the diff. The only manual I have is for a '54 1 ton, which is an open drive shaft, but apparently slightly different than the 55 first series. I'll come back for advice tomorrow if I still have a leaking differential.

- Daniel

"New post on old thread"

I took the advise and bought a small sheet of felt from McMaster-Carr (12" x 12"), to use in my 1941 1 1/2 ton pinion axle seal. I read another post that suggested that the packing was unneccesary, but wanted to have it anyway. The thickness of the packing is 3/8" and the durometer read around 55, so I bought the 24S2 product. The part number is 8759K34. I cut it with an exacto knife and it popped right in snug. I'll post again if this fails to work like I think it will.

These tech tips are timeless. I don't post much, but I read a lot of them. Thanks for the help.

Check with a marine repair shop that works on inboard boats. It is used in the stuffing box where the drive shaft goes thru the hull from the engine to the prop. It comes in different sizes.