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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,082 Posts1,055,964 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 | Please look at the right side rust holes Right Cab Corner Left Cab Corner I dont want to cut the whole piece for the replacement cab corners they see but the curvy area is making me nervous to cut some piece and patch up. Any ideas you guys have Ganesh | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | We cut out what we needed from the outer cab corner replacement panels. Once you clear away the paint/primer, you will probably find that the rust is more extensive. The replacement paels do not have the original weep holes. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 | oh know actually I had cleaned paint rust and everything found only those rusts and holes, this cab is recently primed fresh. Inside the cab I have rust encapsulator coated. I tried to know around those rust spots and rest of the metal is strong. My theory was since I have rust encapsulator is painted inside and outside is all cleaned out, guess is it should not rust more and so can I patch with some filler material and not worry at all. I am trying to avoid cutting two major cab corners.
Ganesh | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 121 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 121 | why not cut yhe rust out and fix the rust correctly so you dont heve filler covering the rust holes? i just got done replacing my cab corners it is easy. and you will have less filler and a better job. and the rust wont come back in the future
gotta love old trucks
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 | The best is to cut out the bad and put in the new. If you must here is what I have done in the past. Sand the primer but don't sand it to metal. It is good if the primer is 2 part epoxy. Put some nylon screen on the back side and hold it in place with masking tape on the front. Mix up some JB Weld and apply it to the back side and push the masking tape in from the front to dimple it down some. Let it harden, lightly sand and put another coat of JB Weld. After it is hardened use some bondo like material on the front and sand smooth. Prime with 2 part epoxy and paint. This is not a life time patch but if you removed all of the rust in the first place it will last for years. Again the best way to deal with it is a patch panel. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 | Thanks neilroy, lot of people might like the idea of doing this kind of patch. but an option to fix it
Ganesh | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 | If that is really all there is, a competent welder could weld those holes up. You would have to clean everything down to the good metal. Then come time with a file and you are done. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Hey 53chev......do you have to remove the bed in order to replace those cab corners or can you get to it with the bed on?
Spot
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 | You will at least have to slide the bed back a foot or so or jack the front up might work better. It really depends on what shape the old ones are in and how much you have to remove. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 | I looked at my cab today, as this is a future project. It looks to me like you could jack up the back of the cab and remove the splash aprons then you could do it. Like Neil said though it depends on how much you need to replace.
Jeremy | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | If that is really all there is, a competent welder could weld those holes up. Nobody can weld up rust holes. | | |
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