The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Pick and file guy

Hey guys, I have a set of the elusive box trim for my 59 fleetside. The trouble is that it has a few dings and bends and needs to be worked. I am in the south western British Columbia area and am looking for a pick and file guy. If you can help a guy out and give me some names it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks...........Jeff

All the pick and file guys have died. You might want to check in Hemmings, Auto Restorer. Contact a shop that specializes in auto restoring, they probably can put you in touch with someone that restores stainless steel mldgs.

Last I checked I still had a pulse.

Do you still do the pick and file work? If so, how is a price worked out, I have 4 pieces about six feet long that need some striaghtening and some pick and file work.

pick and file work is not all that hard on SS trim ..I did all mine on my 55 Belair including the long quarter moldings, take your time and work up through successive grits.

Try posting on one of these sites, they are geared towards NOTHING but metal shaping.
Pick and file guys have not died out, the techniques of pick file might have changed, but true metal finishing is GROWING!!!!

www.metalmeet.com

www.allmetalshaping.com

There are several guys from Canada on metalmeet and many more around the Washington area...Eric

I'm retired and don't have the tools needed to do the job anymore. You will have to take it to whoever you find and get an estimate. You will be charged by the hour and the price will be based on how many hours they think it will take.

Thanks guys keep the replies coming. I'm willing to try just about anything but this trim is pretty small and finicky. Would I have to make a small anvil in the shape of the trim in order to get it to the right shape? And lastly, does anyone know if they make a video describing how to work the metal?
Thanks,
Jeff

If you understand block sanding, you get the idea. First thing is to be sure the part fits the contour of the panel, then start working out the dents. You don't need a form but you do need to work deliberately but carefully.

Start by roughing in the shape with tools made from steel bars and ground to the approximate shape, kind of like a dull chisel - we used to call these "corking tools". Do not try to hammer out the shape directly with the hammer, you need control over where your blows land so it's much more accurate if you position your corking tool and hit it with the hammer. Back up the area with a steel dolly or anvil. Avoid stretching the metal.

When you get the shape close use a fine file to "block sand" the area. Then start picking up the low spots. Be careful not to file through because if that happens it's over... you will never be able to weld a hole in metal that thin and even if you did the welded area becomes impossible to work. Backing with a steel dolly or anvil will help avoid picking the metal too proud of the desired surface. Once you have the shape back, finish with progressively finer grits of black sanding paper (the wet-or-dry stuff) starting with about 180 grit and working up to 400 being sure you remove all of the scratches from the previous grade. Then polish.

I would seriously suggest finding a scrap trim part and practicing on that. Metal finishing is metal finishing regardless of the metal but SS trim is paper thin compared to a fender, but once you get the feel of it, it's not really all that intimidating.

Hi Jeff,

Ya, what Woody said.

Here is an article that puts a slightly different spin on pick and file work. http://www.autobodystore.com/ms26.shtml In any case it is a slow and painstaking process. If you try to bang things back too quickly there is a chance they may become worse than when you started. Best of luck and please let us know how it goes.

Good article Eileen. Like anything else requiring a craftsman's touch there are as many ways to do it as there are people doing it, and under each method are similarities and differences.

The similarity here is the cautions to proceed carefully. Whether you tap with a corking tool or push with an awl, be deliberate and don't try to force things. Don't file very high spots, don't file through.

The difference is the use of a power tool. I much prefer the tactile experience of hand sanding with a block. The one thing about using a power tool is that it will caution you to very thin spots because the heat from the friction will turn those areas blue. Yes, hand sanding will take longer but I feel that it's more consistent with the delicate nature of the work.

Regardless, I would strongly advise practicing on a test part. Never try something new on something you can't afford to throw in the scrap heap.

Thank you Eileen, that's a very good article, I haven't finished reading the whole thing yet but it does break it down pretty good.

Was reading an issue of Skinned Knuckles magazine recently www.skinnedknuckles.net One of their advertisers is Vintage Vehicles Inc www.vintagevehicles.net They specialize in stainless, aluminum, and chrome trim restoration. Any Stovebolters dealt with them?