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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
O
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
Busy making repairs after my exciting ride; all 8 studs sheared on the right rear, dumping both 19.5s and making for some scary views out the front windshield!

The vehicle, a '63 Grumman Kurbmaster on a 1 ton Chevy P30 chassis.

Got the drum and hub off, pressed in new studs. Figured while I was in there, I'd make sure the brakes got done as well.

Shoes match up perfectly, and the new wheel cylinder looks right too.

But...the bolts holding the wheel cylinder are stuck, and are now getting a PB Blaster soak.

Question is; should I try to unbolt the brake backing plate for better access? Will that plate come off completely, giving the best access?

Any other hints will be gladly accepted!

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
guess I'll have to muddle my way through...

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 171
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 171
yes the backing plate will come off completely. if it were me i'd keep soaking it with the blaster & just wait a while & the bolts will probably come loose. i always like to clean all the loose rust & dirt off the surface with wire brush first. come to think of it, seems as if those bolts go through a hole in the backing plate & are threaded into the wheel cylyinder which you're replacing anyway. there again if it was me, i'd just break them off & buy some new grade 5 or 8 bolt ( cheap ) rather than tear into it that much further. let me know how it works out.
robert


Robert French MY3800FIRETRUCK
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 137
Thanks Robert!

I have succeeded in loosening 1 of the 2 bolts that hold the wheel cylinder to the plate, the other has rounded off. I also got the brake line loosened as well. Gotta love a propane torch!

I think I will leave the brake plate in place, and grind off the "hump" on the wheel cylinder where the stuck bolt resides. A little 3lb maul action should finish the removal.

All {of course!} after a thorough visual inspection and comparison of the new cylinder to the old one! Some nice new hardware and the job is almost done.

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 137
Success! But not without some hassles!

Ground the wheel cylinder hump, 2 smacks with the maul and all is well. Bolted the new cylinder in place and began assembling the brake shoes...

Sumpin aint right here...

Turns out the online parts store sold me a 13 in drum [correct] and 12 in shoes. Something screwy in their catalog system, even after I go back there is no way to find out what size drum the shoes are meant for.

Ran up to the old school parts store where the counters are lined with paper catalogs, got the right shoes and paid dearly for them!

All I need now is a set of 8 hub centered lug nuts!

Overall, not too bad a job, having never worked on a floating axle set-up, not gonna bat an eye at doing the other side!

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 171
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Shop Shark
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 171
good for you! robert


Robert French MY3800FIRETRUCK
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 18
K
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 18
'63 grumman huh? I have a '62 that I need to do brakes on. Where did you get your parts? I'm under the impression I have " rear drums and 11" fronts. I think my front driver's wheel cylinder is leaking but I haven't checked to confirm yet.

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 137
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 137
I am finishing up the job through a local parts store. Imagine finding a parts store with paper catalogs! They had the other rear wheel cylinder on the shelf, both fronts in the next day.

Got my drums from www.rockauto.com


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