Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (Otto Skorzeny, Steelonsteel, Gdads51, J Lucas, Peggy M, dt235sd, walter74, klhansen),
127
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,036 Posts1,055,454 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 | I have a 65c10 with 283v8 2bbl. when I removed the carb. I realized one stud was missing. after further inspection, there is a little rod where stud should be. could this be a rusty and rotted stud? Ive never seen a 3 stud carb. with a 4 hole pattern. any help would be great, I'm rebuilding the carb. tomorrow. Thanks Brett | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,751 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,751 | It sounds like you've got a rusted or broken-off stud. A little Kroil and some heat, plus a pair of vise grips will probably let you unscrew it, but don't break it off flush with the manifold or you'll have a devil of a time getting the rest of it out. Some of the older intake manifolds had a heat riser passage that exposed two carb mounting studs to exhaust gas, and they rotted off pretty regularly.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 | Jerry, I think you are correct. I'll try in the morning, the other side is rotting also. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,751 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,751 | Better change them both while you're in the mood, and if you can get a stainless steel stud to use as a replacement, it will last longer.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 Carburetion specialist | | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,763 | Change them all!
If one does twist at or below the surface of the manifold, weld THROUGH a nut sitting on top into the twisted stud below. Prior to welding, disconnect any electronic gizmos you may have on the engine. Once you have the nut welded on, very easy to withdraw the stud.
Jerry - no offense, but I disagree on recommending stainless. Yes, it may last longer; but the friction is different, thus the tightening torque is different. A somewhat difficult "carburetor issue" is a vacuum leak at the intake caused by a loose carb to intake nut. Not saying stainless should not be used; but if used, the user needs to understand both positives, and negatives.
Jon.
Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,751 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,751 | Good point, Jon. Sometimes I forget that everybody doesn't have 50 years' experience to draw on concerning installation torque, anti-seize compound use, etc. I just naturally consult the appropriate torque tables, or use self-locking nuts when I'm making that kind of modification. Thanks for the reality check!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 132 | Jon and Jerry thank you for the info. the welding the nut on idea makes alot of sense, never would have thought of it. Thank you Brett | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | Keep the welding a nut to it idea in mind whenever you break a bolt or stud. It not only gives you a good hex to get a grip on, but the heat of the welding helps break the nut loose. | | |
|
|
