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| | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,677 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 22 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 22 | I've got everything working on my 54 (12v) except the gauge lights. It is wired as instructed in harness directions from the headlamp switch, on the headlamp post, checked the headlamp switch fuse, have replaced all bulbs with 12v equivalents, but none of them work except the bright headlight indicator and the dome light which are on their own wires. Would one bad bulb or connection keep them all from working, like Christmas lights? Can I hook it through a different post on the headlamp switch? Do they need a resistor? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | There is a resistor reostat built into the headlight switch. As you turn the knob the lights get brighter/dimmer. Make sure you have it hooked to the correct term. on the switch. They generally use a grey wire & anyone can work that has a good bulb & is hooked up correctly. It's possible the resister in the switch is burned out. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | No they are in parallel. Follow the system backwads from the bulbs with a light type tester while switch is on til you find hot. That will narrow it down. There is a real good chance its the ground for the lamps. DO they have their own ground wire or rely on screwing the dash together? Attach a ground to dash plate or bulb base to test if it's the ground. Use spare wires to make a bypass, hot and ground to a bulb. Stuff like that is how you trouble shoot. Eliminate all the harness and connectors by bypassing to see if you can get them to light first. It's a bad ground or you goofed. Been there done that with an American Autowire Harness.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 194 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 194 | If the instrument cruster is removed this will remove the ground return for the bulbs. Connect a ground lead back to ground until you reinstall the cluster with screws. Had the same problem when working in mine. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 202 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 202 | Hi, Hawkguy, the above posts have good advise. I installed a plastic reproduction harness in my 49 and had the same problems. It turned out to be the cheap plastic bulb holders, so I cut the original bulb holders off of the old wiring and connected to the new wiring. The old bulb holders are also a tighter fit in the instruments.
Keep the 216's running. 1949 1/2 ton model #1314 (US 3104) Brian
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Yes, good point Hippy I DID NOT use the plastic either in my rewire of TF truck. I also had a problem with the Dome light, had the headlight switch hanging down while working.....it needed to be grounded. SO even though I fixed the problem, it would not light until I grounded the switch. (it is grounded when installed to dash). So like Hank says attach wire to dash plates and to the switch body and ground them while trouble shooting if they are hanging loose and be sure the problem is not ground.
Last edited by bartamos; 06/30/2010 9:53 PM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | |
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