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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 | First time painting -Single stage or 2 stage paint Urethane paint. The paint shop guy told me 2 stage is more forgiving as you can fix any problems but single stage is more hard to fix.
Any ideas please?
Ganesh | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 40 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 40 | They are both pretty forgiving, I use single stage for parts that I don't care about, brackets ect. I would use base coat clear coat for the body, it is much more durable. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | What does he mean, harder to fix?
Spraying clear is one of the most difficult things you can do with paint and it's real easy to get runs in it unless you are in a WELL LIT spray booth.
Single stage will give you a VERY durable finish and will look more like the factory paint. Two stage is going to look "wet" it will be so glossy.
Either one is an excellent finish, just pick your shine. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | I've painted both. The thing that I like about clear is that if you get a light parking lot scrape or fine scratches, you can sand/buff the clear down (assuming you layer enough on) and not touch the color. As long as you clean it well, you can reshoot clear w/o a lot of concern over the matching (obviously, its clear). sags and runs are a little easier to miss on clear unless it is super bright where you are painting. the other thing that i noticed on my jeep (base/clear) was that if you get dirt/dust/bugs in the clear, they stand out more than if they are in just a color shot (get covered with paint) I have a small gnat that is encased in clear on the lower rear of my jeep's front fender. Kinda jurassic park style. but its low and usually covered in mud so i don't worry about it.
Some of you guys who have much more experience painting may disagree (please do!!) but its all about prepwork. any shortcuts on bodywork/primer will be magnified exponentially after the paint is on. work clean, easy light coats, READ THE LABEL to know what/how to apply/reduce/harden/etc.
Sorry I'm long winded tonight. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | its all about prepwork. any shortcuts on bodywork/primer will be magnified exponentially after the paint is on. work clean, easy light coats, READ THE LABEL to know what/how to apply/reduce/harden/etc. +2 | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 | Well Woody the paint shop guy said, in two stage if you mess up some spots, you could clean up and respray but with 2 stage it is little more harder I believe.
I am new, whatever everyone suggests I will take it I guess.
Ganesh | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 40 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 40 | I would sum this debate up by saying that: Through my experiences painting in "non-ideal" conditions I would prefer to paint using the two stage system any day, over the single stage system. I painted the cab of my truck in a car tent, on dirt, it actually came out good. I am now wet sanding and buffing my imperfections out, it is a long process, however, because of the clear coat I have the ability to remove most imperfections that I find. Single stage paint would not allow me to do so, I do not believe it would buff out as nicely as clear coat will. Also through my education working at NAPA Auto Parts, I have learned that a base coat clear coat paint job is actually far more durable than a single stage paint job. I am all for durability, my truck will be driven, it will see bugs, sap, and tar, it needs a durable finish. I would paint every car using the base coat clear coat system, I would leave single stage to brackets and other parts that do not need to stay looking glossy and shiny. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 388 | Today I bought a qt of Single stage to paint firewall and under hood, I will see how it shows up. That way I can put the drive train back in and test my drive train. Prime rest of them and put togeather and decide which way to go. Firewall I guess is safe place to try my skills also
Ganesh | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 | my .02... I really like single stage and here's why. 1- its simple 2- Repairs are easy. 3- If you use as many coats of single stage as you would of 2 stage you can make it shine for ever... (well, maybe not forever...) color sanding single stage down to 2K grit and polish, and it will be beautiful! It won't look like you could dive down into it though, so if that's your preference go with 2 stage. It will look a lot more like a factory paint job though.. Audi used single stage paints on their cars through to 2000 except on pearls/metallics... when someone would come in and say its original the clear coat just needs re-done.... everyone's eyes would roll.
Prep prep prep prep prep and wen you think you are done walk away from it for 24 hours, then come back and look it over again! Don't skimp on good body filler or good primer! woo.. that's looking more like $1.00 sorry...
Last edited by lostmy47; 07/01/2010 5:23 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | Lost my 47,
may have been your .02, but was worth more than a buck! Raises a question at the end of your comment - Good body filler and good primer - what is your idea of "good"? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 64 | You can color sand and buff single stage paint as long as it is not a metallic color. That is an important point. If you are a first-timer and you are intending to use a metallic color I recommend you go with two stage paint for the ability to correct problems and buff it out. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | You can color sand and buff single stage paint as long as it is not a metallic color. Good point | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 | When you mention durability I wonder how much you expect. If you don't ever plan on putting your gorgeous paint job under a roof you might need to consider durability.
Here's what I found, I did a single stage burgundy in 85 and the car spends most of it's life under roof except for driving it. I did a BC paint job in the early 90's and that truck has spent it's life outside.
Two years ago the clear started to dull and now it's got to the flake off stage, but only on the flat surfaces not the sides. Now the single stage still looks great and is the older paint job and happens to be the acrylic enamel that was reduced with lacquer thinner....I know, ain't spose to do that.
This leads me to think I need to find a more durable paint if I intend on leaving it outdoors always, so if you guys know of such a paint, please let me know what will stand up to mother nature.
Dan
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