The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Brake problems on my 66 C10

I have a problem maybe someone out there has also had... I've got a 66 C10 long bed which I am slowly bringing back to life. For a number of months the right side wheel cylinder was leaking a little and I would occasionally have to top off the brake fluid...no problem the truck was braking fine. Lately however I've been experiencing no brake pedal...all the way to the floor, Pumping furiously causes one of the brakes to engage and slow me down... I thought I had air in my lines and gravity bled the whole system starting from the brake farthest from the master and work to the the wheel under it. This is my first brake bleeding experience and I'm not sure if I'm doing it right... break fluid drips out of each bleeder instead of any steady stream. but after going through a quart of brake fluid I think I've got the air out... problem is, still no brakes... pedal down to the floor. I have never had a master cylinder go out,,, are my symptoms indicating that the master needs to be replaced? any ideas on this would be helpful..

Thanks
Sandy

First thing would be to take care of the leaking wheel cylinder, if you haven't done so already. The what you'll need to do is a pressurized bleeding. Gravity bleeding is ok to get fluid out to the bleeders, but doesn't really get the air out of the system. There's several ways to bleed a brake system, but I'll keep it to methods that don't require special equipment or procedures. The first way requires a helper to pump the pedal. With the M/C full, cap on, and all bleeder closed, have the helper pump the pedal until pthe pressure starts to come up. Usually about 5-6 pumps on the pedal will do. Then have them hold the pressure on the pedal at the last pump. Open the bleeder, starting at the longest line, which is usually the rr, but can vary depending on line routing. Have the helper let you know when the pedal reaches the bottom of the stroke. Close the bleeder screw and repeat until you get a clean stream of fluid with no bubbles. Repeat on the other wheels, going LR, RF, LF, checkeing the M/C between wehhls to keep the level of fluid up. You could also do this without a helper by using speed bleeders, which have a one way valve in them to prevent pulling air back in.

Thanks!!!! will do what you recommend. I have not fixed the wheel cylinder yet... I'm still debating if I should buy a new one or rebuild... had any success at rebuilding? I've not much experience with this sort of thing and don't know what's involved with a rebuild. Anyway, thanks for your kind answer to my question...

Rebuilding a wheel clyinder is quite easy. As long as the cylinder is not pitted its rebuildable. You just need to hit it with a hone gently and install a wheel clyinder kit. I just did 2 of mine and the kits were only about $4.20 a piece at Carquest.

I just rebiult the rear brakes on my 65 c10. I changed both rear brake cyl.s, bought new ones at autozone. I bled the brakes the way Longbox said everything works great.