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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 92 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 92 | Couple questions. I followed the wiring schematic when I wired my 48 Chevy 1/2 ton 235. The gage is always on the C side, which means charging right? When I turn the lights on, it goes further into the C side, are my wires backwards? Shouldnt it be on the D side?
Also, I frequently have to charge my battery and jump start my truck. I had the generator(6 volt) rebuilt before. It is putting out >6 volts. Is there a problem with the voltage regulator on the firewall? I never did replace that. Are there some checks that I can do? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 | You might have the wiring on the ammeter reversed. What happens to the ammeter when you turn the headlights on without the engine running?
The simplest test is to put a voltmeter on the battery posts and run the engine at 1500-2000 RPM. With a fully-charged battery, you should see somewhere between 7.0 to 7.5 volts if the charging system is working properly. If the voltage is below 7, but above 6 volts, you might need to adjust the voltage regulator to supply a little more voltage to the battery.
Take the top off the regulator, and see if the set of points (cutout relay) behind the "Bat." terminal closes when the engine is started. If not, you might need to polarize the generator by momentarily connecting a jumper wire from the Bat. Terminal to the Arm. terminal for half a second or so. It will make a pretty good flash, so don't leave it connected for long. As the engine is revved up, the cutout relay should close as the generator voltage rises above battery voltage. The voltage at the "Arm" terminal of the generator needs to be above battery voltage, or the battery will discharge itself anytime the cutout relay points are closed. DO NOT close the cutout points by hand, as they will stick together and allow a serious discharge. Check those things out, and get back to us on what's happening. If necessary, I can walk you through adjusting the current and voltage regulator points. Good luck! Jerry
Last edited by Hotrod Lincoln; 06/16/2010 9:56 PM.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 92 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 92 | The ammeter does the same thing when the truck is off and I turn the lights on. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 | OK, if the ammeter moves toward the + side (charge) when there's an electrical drain without the engine running, swap the wires at the back of the gauge. There should be one wire from the voltage regulator to the ammeter, and another one from the ammeter to the ignition switch, both on the same terminal. The opposite terminal on the meter should have a single heavy-gauge wire, (about a #10) running to the battery cable connector at the starter. As current goes from the starter cable to the ignition switch or lights, (engine off) the ammeter should show a discharge. Once the generator kicks in, there should be a charge indicated on the ammeter. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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